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33  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

V;iUTH,N.Y.  M5M 

(716)t73-4S03 


'^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  liistitute  for  Historical  IMicroraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductiont  hiatoriquaa 


Taohnieal  and  Biblioflraphic  NotM/NotM  tachniquM  at  MMiooraphiquM 


TtM  Imtituta  hM  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avallabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  wMch  may  ba  MMIographically  unlqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  Imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  vvhich  may  aignificantiy  changa 
tha  uauai  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


|T7|   Colourad  covara/ 
IzSJ   Couvartura  da  eouiaur 


I     I   Covara  damagad/ 


D 


H 


D 
D 


D 


Couvartura  andommagia 

Covara  rattorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raatauria  at/ou  pallieulAa 


I — I  Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


r~|   Colourad  mapa/ 


Cartaa  g4ographiquas  an  eouiaur 

Colourad  inic  Ci.a.  othar  than  biua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  eouiaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


r~n   Colourad  plataa  and/or  iiiuatrationa/ 


D 


Planchaa  at/ou  illustrations  an  eouiaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
RallA  avae  d'autras  documents 


Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  raliura  serrAe  paut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leeves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omittev   '*om  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAas 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaiasant  dans  la  texte. 
mais.  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  At*  film«es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmantairas: 


L'Inatltut  a  mierofiimA  la  malllaur  axemplaire 
qu1l  lul  a  AtA  poaaibia  da  aa  procurer.  Las  dAtaiis 
da  cat  axemplaire  qui  aont  paut-Atre  unlquae  du 
point  da  vua  bibllographlque,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reprodulte.  ou  qui  pauvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  m4thode  norrhala  de  filmage 
aont  Indlquto  d-daeaous. 


1 
t 


pn  Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur^es  at/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe< 
Pagea  dAcolorAas.  tachetiaa  ou  piqutes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachAes 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prin 

QualM  in^igaia  da  I'lmpreaalon 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matArial  supplAmentaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Bauia  Mitlon  diaponibia 


□  Pages  damaged/ 
Pages 

r~n  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

rri  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

|~~l  Pages  detached/ 

1^  Bhowthrough/ 

j~~|  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

F~|  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


1 
f 

0 

f 


C 

b 

ti 
s 
o 
fl 
s 
o 


T 

? 

1 

a 

ri! 
rs 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  errata 
slips,  tissuaa,  etc.,  have  been  refiimed  to 
enaura  the  best  possible  image/ 
Lee  peges  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiilet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc..  ont  At*  filmies  i  nouveau  de  fa^on  i 
obtenir  la  meiiieure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 


14X 


18X 


22X 


26X 


30X 


T 

3 

12X 


16X 


20X 


a4x 


2iX 


32X 


Th«  copy  f ilfn«d  hor*  has  b—n  raproducMl  thanks 
to  tho  gonorotity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archival  of  British  Columbia 


L'oxomplairo  fllmA  f ut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
g4n«roalt*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provirtdal  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  qualHy 
poMibIa  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacificationa. 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  4t4  raproduitaa  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  raxamplaira  filmA.  at  mn 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  capias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  origins;  {sopias  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  snd  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustratad  imprassion. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  ^^-  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  V  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


Las  axamplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papiar  ast  imprimAa  sont  filmAs  an  commandant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  mn  tarminant  salt  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  los  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  filmto  an  common^ant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 

Un  das  symbolas  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darniira  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha.  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  — ^  signifia  "A  SUIVRE".  la 
symbols  V  signifia  "FIN". 


Maps,  platas.  charts,  ate,  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  bo 
o(^*iraly  includad  in  ona  axposura  ara  filmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  cornar.  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  msny  framas  as 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrams  illustrata  tha 
mathod: 


Las  cartas,  planchas.  tablaaux.  ate.  pauvant  Atra 
filmAs  A  das  taux  da  rAduction  diffArants. 
Lorsqua  la  documant  ast  trap  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  an  un  saul  clichA.  il  ast  filmA  A  partir 
da  I'angia  supAriaur  gaucha.  da  gaucha  A  droita. 
at  da  haut  mn  bas.  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d 'imagas  nAcassaira.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthods. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^ 


m^    II  ujJUUJuujujjuu 


J(XX 


FIRST  EDITJONj»moyyUU\ 

MAY,   1885: 


N»;    I. 


LUSTRATED 
!AONTH  LY^ 


T***: 


w^'^'     ;w 


v^^l 


'V'"  t-^fii^x. 


k^VV 


r="^^. 


\,);.A:.- 


OTcHrrURYC^OUNIONSQUARENEW^YOl 
ki>r  vw  _.  y. JSTRANDLONT- 


WHht7.«l5.byTh.~C;«tur,C*l      (Tr,d..M.rfc»«.,(.te.«IO«t  mil.  ••••.)      {«"*«-•»•*.  V   «        Off!.,  t .  $««M.d  CI...  M.tl  M.MM. 


II 


iffiUi 


M»M««ndbr 


Froi 


THE    CENTURY    MAGAzInI 

CONTENTS    FOR    MAY     i88« 

„  ^^^»^3rx?«  ,rr^  ■'""^-^'  '^'«^--  °-^- 

52  Bi'  •  /   •, Charlotte  FUke  Sates 

The  Bostonians.    IV.       •   •   • 

incidents  of  the  Battlft  of  ManaaaAa    /m         -^"^^  ^<»»<^f  Cheney 

Th"e"s3'^?^i^^pg2^!-^--- 

RecoUectioni  cf  a  Private.    IV  "  »v  ^  l.  F«nk«,.^,  ^  «,^^  ^  ^  j,  ^^^  ^ 

^  7^?dSl^1??^?r^7J.«  ^^^^^   of  Seven  Pines: '^'"'^^  ^'  GV,«     .    .    , 

Memoranda  onthe^ivirWar  *"■*     ^ "'"'^ ^•"«'- 


V 


Co  -^ 


^WW  a  SUdman   .    . 

^w»w  Jackson 

C.  I^  Craneh    ..." 
(^^^fte  de  Forest  Bru^h  \ 
■ft.  C.  Bunuor  ...  I 

'■Henry  James  . 
T.  T.  Afunger 


i^^Cj^S?'  '■  ^'«'«"' 


^^s^^if^'r^^^^^'^^i'^-^^i.i^u^js?;-^^^,^^ 


Gun-boat  Taybror  T^ier l^^x^xk. 
Gen.  Adam  B 

ed  by  due  Union  Lm 

A.  Lampman 


Mark  Twain '         )  /»//^  ^^l-^        "*' 

Oar  National  Defenses  ^  -   fP     ^"^    .   .   . 

General  Sam  Houston: 


A  Correction 


BRIC-A-BRAC. 


Cameron's  Her4  .  

To  Spring   .....:.:; 

A  Sea  Song 

In  the  German        

Unspoken 


■t.  o.  Irrry   ... 
Ideut..Q,m.  C.  F.  Goodrkh 
Alexander  Hynds  .... 


E-  W.  KembU 

Uncle  Esek 

AHce  WeUington  Rollhts  ;, 
J.  A,  Macon     .... 
Stanley  Wood 
Charles  W.  Coletnan,  Jr. 
Georee  Birdseye 


THE  CfiNTUBI  CO.  M  Bart  17tt  8tr««t  m..  ^ 

«w  I7tt  Street  (UbIob  Squre),  Hew-Tork,  IT.  jl 


^•^Sm,. 


i,. 


V-  ? 


ZINE 


f    ^ 


imaZ/ey 


Froi 


se 


GreyhouBd— 1 


ie  Safes 


rat  Brush 


rOSS 


•     •     » 


^  McOfUaH 

Errata.      ^ 
!*w«  .    .   . 

M  Club. 


"osvenor 


Geodrkh  . 


Rollins 


nan,  JrA 


in  the 


PiCMnt 


uabMiNMiorl 
lotiieovwsfbrT 


W 


(O  us  in  1 


^•Tork,  h/ 


GREELY  AT  CAPE   SAIUNE. 


77 


w  ^  Harlotu 
^'heney  .    .    . 

Imbodett   . 
i"'  Johnston  . 

/.  W.  EvaiM,  Min 
K.  C.  Atirood  ant 


Not   from   consciousness   only. —  knowing  ceasing  cry  of  the  conscious  ( reature  for  the 

ourselves  to  he  what  we  are, —  but  out  of  the  Creator,  hy  the  .ispiration  after  perfection,  hy 

mystery  of  ourselves,  may  we  draw  tliis  sul)-  the  pressure  of  evil  and  l)v  the  weight  of  sor- 

lime  hope;  for  we  are  correlated  not  only  to  row,  |)enctraies  the  realms  beyond,  knowing 

the  known,  but  to  the  unknown.    The  spirit  there  must  be  meaning  and  j)urpose  and  end 

transcends   the    visible,    and    by    dream,    by  for  the  mystery  that  it  is. 
vision,  by  inextinguishable  tlesire,  by  the  un-  7'.   '/'.  Mia/C' ': 


C.RKKLY    Al'    (  APK    SAHIXK 


NOTKS    1!V    A    MKMIiKK    oK     I  UK    KI.I.II.1     KXI'I  DITION. 


I^ARI.V  in  the  morning  of  June  i8,  1884, 
>    the  (ireely  Relief  ships  Thetis  and  Bfar, 
ill    company  with   the  whalers   Aurora   and 
Wolf^  passed    the    last  floe  in    Melville  Hay 
,  and  pushed  into  the  "  North  Water  "  towards 
',  Cape  York.    From  (lodhavn  to  Hare  Island, 
among  the  bergs  off  the    Waigit,  at   L'per- 
navik,  through  the  island  ])assages  to  Kingi- 
tek,  in  the  pa<k,  at  the  Duck  Islands,  slowly 
winding    and    twisting    through    the   narrow- 
leads,  or   racing  at  fnl'   speed    tlirough   the 
broader   channels,  with  many  a    shock    and 
many  a  bruise,  often  repulsed  by  the  ic  e,  but 
always  hopeful,  we  had  struggled  for  twenty 
'    days  against   tremendous  obstacles,  and    at 
last  found  ourselves  within  sight  of  the  bold 


/•'-V.^V.v  |,,VJ  MAI-  OK 

■'L      "^   *  r^l"  BAFFIN'S  BAY  AND  SMITH 

r*     "'^^cJ f^'^  WITH  TRACK  OF  THE  TH 


/  /ta«»f //urWf-,fC(.ini.lTOH 


SOUND 

ETIS, 
h'rnm   ,1/111/  Mrrt   tit  June  ilnrl.  /».M. 


ilk-   !■'''••' t"--'-V'l^^  ■''•■^r-\'\ 

■,^'^L  J      ■'*"4"•••^^;"'«^•/'■•o.,,.".^..>' wo*    ,.>^ 

l\J)j  ''''<;'" -J        .r"riihl)h,c<ill,<llhi\Miit<ll.-        ^'    „*""'/ «u(fe'//«WP*.,y, 

"  ^.L  /      t  \  I  1  I I'.    1 J-)^ 


Jiim-  Ik  '-'^ 


'/I     J''      I       N'S    KiMtrtuk  3u«|-iL^ 


'*J?_ 


\ 


.1    V 


••  Currtnt  from  Allantic 
.         .•  •■     Smith. 'htin<t 


1^, 


?r 


\ 


-  <^: 


n- 


♦_       f  ■     I.anctiittr  SmihU 

^^ ^_       ^,  rttumxnff  to  the  .Irlanttr  ^  _ 

rwnfifrvmi  by  tht  thrm  itthtrt  ,  -^ 


KtrutlMira,  M«i,uu 


163302 


heaflland  called  ("ape  York,  which  is  only 
two  hunilred  and  fifty  miles  from  Upernavik. 
A  study  of  the  diagram  on  which  our  course 
is  marked  will  explain  why  it  recpiired  so 
many  days  to  traverse  these  few  miles,  in 
that  part  of  HatVm's  Hay  whii  h  lies  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  CajK'  York,  the  opposing 
forces  of  three  strong  currents  meet,  one  set- 
ting to  the  southward  through  Smith  Sound, 
and  bringing  with  it  immense  fields  of  ice 
from  the  I'obir  Ocean  and  l)crgs  from  the 
northern  glaciers ;  a  seconcl  setting  to  the 
eastward  through  Jones  Sound,  while  the 
third,  starting  on  the  eastern  coast  of  (ireen- 
land,  rounds  t'ape  l-arewcll  and  forms  a  loop 
in  Baffin's  Hay.  Repeated  observations  have 
demonstrated  that  the  right 
i)ranch  of  this  loop  keejjs 
close  to  the  (Ireenland 
shores,  sweejjs  round  to  the 
westward  in  Melville  Hay, 
and  meeting  the  Smith  and 
Jones  Sound  <  urrents,  re- 
turns close  by  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  eddy  that  forms 
where  these  three  currents 
meet  is  generally  free  from 
ice,  and  is  known  among 
w  balers  as  the  North  \.  ..tcr. 
The  floating  ice  that  these 
cunents  gather  and  carry 
with  them  is  swirled  about 
between  the  two  branches 
of  the  iooji  and  forms  what 
is  known  as  the  "Middle 
Pack.'  It  is  almost  impas- 
sable, as  well  as  exceedingly 
dangerous.  Now  in  all  the 
tidal  bays  and  fiords  of  the 
Arctic  Seas  a  fringe  of  ice 
remains  fast  to  the  shore, 
like  a  shelf  at  low  water, 
and  joined  to  the  floe,  or 
traveling  ice,  at  high  w  ater. 
«. c .  tu, r.  .N. » .        It  varies  in  width  accordiiig 


I 


\ 


\ 


uj^T-^ 


W'^W^ri. 


■iti«nteMa 


HA. 


78 


GREELY  AT  CAPE   SAIUNE. 


I 


1 


to  the  character  of  the  shore  and  the  thickness 
of  the  ice.  'I'hc  el)i)  and  flood  ti  les  ahernately 
clear  and  fill  the  hays  with  the  detached  floes, 
while  the  "ice  foot"  remains  fast  and  affords  a 
j)ath  from  |)lace  to  |)hi<  e  which  the  treacherous 
floe  oftentimes  fbrl)i<ls.  Thi-.  srime  phenom- 
enon exists  in  the  broader  waters  of  Baffin's 
Jtay.  C'linf,'ing  to  the  shores  of  (Ireenland  is 
this  frin>,'e,  known  also  as  the  Land  ice.  and 
varying  in  widtli  from  one  to  fifty  miles.  'I'he 
power  of  tide  and  current  silently  moves  the 
Middle  Pack  from  and  towards  this  Land 
Ice,  leaving  a  narrow  strip  of  open  water  be- 
tween them,  known  to  Arctic  cruisers  as  "a 
lead."  At  times  the  leads  are  a  mile  in  width, 
oftener  but  a  hundred  yards,  and,  at  times, 
barely  as  wide  as  the  ship.  It  was  through 
these  narrow  channels  that  the  Relief  S(|uad- 
ron  had  picked  its  way.  using  steam  to  push 
the  ice  aside  and  torpetloes  to  widen  the 
path,  when  the  leads  were  obstructetl  or 
narrowed. 

The  reward  of  twenty-five  thousand  dollars 
that  Congress  had  offered  for  the  first  infor- 
mation of  (Ireely  had  incited  the  whalers  to 
take  riiiks  that  they  otherwise  would  have 
shunned.  They  had  ex|)ressed  a  determina- 
tion to  strive  for  it,  and  were  ever  ontthe 
alert  for  a  chance  to  creep  northward.  The 
Relief  Scpiadron  was  determined,  on  its  part, 
that  the  whalers  should  not  secure  the  first 
information,  and  were  equally  zealous  in  push- 
ing northward.  It  was  this  rivalry  (a  friendly 
•one,  for  our  relations  with  the  whaling  cap- 
tains were  of  the  pleasantest  nature)  that  hur- 
ried us  across  Melville  Hay  and  brought  us 
together  within  sight  of  Cape  York.  It  had 
been  thought  possible  that  (ireely  or  an  ad- 
vance party  might  be  there.  In  fact,  a  story 
was  current,  which  a  native  from  that  place 
had  told  one  of  the  whaling  captains,  of  a 
white  man  who  had  come  to  him  for  food, 
offering  a  gun  in  exchange.  On  the  remote 
chance  of  this  being  true,  the  Relief  Squad- 
ron hoisted  flags  at  each  mast-head,  in  order 
that  any  i)arty  on  shore  might  distinguish  the 
United  States  ships  from  the  others.  Thus 
decorated,  we  raced  across  the  North  Water, 
each  vessel  straining  eveiy  power  to  be  the 
first  at  Cape  York. 

My  morning  watch  called  me  to  the 
*•  Crow's  Nest."  The  officer  whom  1  was  to 
relieve  met  me  at  the  cross-trees,  and  de- 
scrilted  Mic  situation  in  a  few  words.  "  The 
ships  cheered  the  North  Water  when  they 
passed  the  floe,"  he  said;  •'  the  Bear  is  racing 
the  Wolf  for  the  cai)e ;  a  search  party  is  to 
land  at  once  and  explore  the  coast,  (iood- 
morning.''  For  the  Crow's  Nest,  imagine  a 
stoutly  built  barrel  nearly  six  feet  high  and 
three  feet  in  diameter,  bound  with  heavy  iron 


hooi)s,  a  seat  and  two  foot-rests  on  the  insi.  A  sle 
with  an  ellii)tical  opening  in  the  bottom  lar.»r  Anir 
enough  to  admit  your  .shoulders  with  a  squci  "  ^"* 
and  when  you  have  passed  in,  closed  witi,'*'!*-"  ^^ 
hinged  lid.  A  buggy-top  arrangement  '  1^  ^^ 
|)oses  the  wind  and  snow,  and  a  light  circu  In  '\ 
railing  shoulderefi  out  from  the  upper  eiinin^'l' 
affords  a  rest  for  the  outer  end  of  the  h  •  ^^po 
telescope.  'Lhe  outsido  is  painted  bla(  k.  ;iiftcr  tli 
it  is  secured  with  stout  iron  bands  to  the  m;i »  t<^'  ^ 
head,  one  hundred  an(t  ten  feet  above  t'*^*'" 
water's  edge.  Here  the  captain,  j)ilot  or  oi  A  w( 
cer  of  the  deck  sits  and  directs  the  cour^  V-\w\ 
of  the  ship  by  a  system  of  signals  to  the  nii***^  '• 
at  the  wheel.  When  stopped  by  the  irr, '■it'i  ^ 
lookout  spends  his  watch  with  an  eye  at  tiU*  'jf 
telescope,  searching  in  all  directions  for  a  leaO^y  '< 

I  mounted  the  la..t  ladder  and  rapped  if^*^  ^" 
the  lid.  Captain  Schley,  by  means  of  a  sni.  •***''> 
line,  jmlled  up  the  lid,  stepping  on  the  tv^ari"''! 
foot-rests  to  permit  me  to  enter.  I  squee/UQ'^  t* 
through,  and  closed  the  lid  again.  It  wa^ 'l**'*-'''^ 
tight  fit  for  two  persons,  so  I  sat  on  the  ed:'*"''  ' 
and  leaned  out  on  the  railing  for  suppor"*  .^'''-' 
Before  me  lay  Cape  York,  a  rugged  headlan^***^'^' 
sean.  jd  with  white  lines  of  snow  and  ice.  I»duce 
contour,  seen  as  we  approached,  was  regul.'MBid. 
as  we  were  too  far  away  to  see  the  deep  r  Meai 
vines  that  scarred  its  surface  or  to  notice  th^'  '''■ 
shadows  filled  in  the  jagged  outline.  To  i!»e  floe 
right  was  a  bay,  smooth  and  shining  with  i'tach  1 
covering  of  white;  high  hills  encircled  it,  tin™  '^'^ 
tops  glistening  with  icy  caps  ;  here  and  thcP*"  ^ 
a  glacier  pushed  its  way  through  a  ravin '^v^^' 
and  a  heavy  mist  veiled  the  valleys.  Fartli^*^'"! 
to  the  right  the  hills  faded  in  the  gray  of  d;ff  t° 
tant  rock  and  ice.  Stretching  from  the  Ca;'  "'V 
to  the  left  was  a  white  thread  that  told  of  tl">n*'^ 
floe  edge ;  over  it  hung  the  hazy  gray  of  t:'*"'"''' 
"  ice-blink,"  —  the  warning  of  what  lay  befo:^  '^•'^I 
us.  Toward  this  floe  edge,  at  the  foot  of  Ca]'^  P^ 
York,  we  were  steaming,  the  Bear  ahea^®^"^' 
close  behind  her  the  whaling  steamer  /f'(  '*P^'^' 
then  her  mate  the  Aurora,  and  finally  (i.><Mt"il 
flag-ship,  the  Thetis.  The  cHstance  from  tl"*"  ^^ 
Bear  to  the  Thetis  was  perhaps  a  mile.  Em*  X^ 
vessel  followed  in  the  other's  wake,  and  t:  »et-"P 
forecastles  were  black  with  the  crews  excitt**"' 
by  the  race.  In  each  cro'  nest  the  figure  ■*"' 
the  captain  might  be  seen  leaning  f.ir  01/**  1 
and  extending  his  arms  in  signal  to  the  heln.'  ^"-^ 
man  below  him.  We  may  learn  something  ^''d, 
Greely  on  those  rocky  shores.  ^  "*^ 

"  Good-morning,  Captain,"  I  said,  on  entt  i*cnt 
ing  the  cro'  nest;  "what  are  the  prospects  '*?, 

"  Good,"  he  replied  ;  "  the  Bear  will  be  /»•  '" 
the  Cape  first.    Colwell  (one  of  the  wat(  j'^''^' 
ofiicerr,  of  the  Bear)  is  to  land  with  a  do!~"*6 
and  light  sledge  to  visit  the  shore  at  on<  e.   "'•"' 
he  hears  of  their  being  in  the  neighborhoo'™^^' 
I  shall  start  a  sledging  party  immediately."  ^^^^ 


'f'^mmmm^.Q: 


I 


i 


G  RE  ELY  AT  CAPE   SABINE. 


79 


-rests  on  the  insi.   A  slctl^o  loaded  witli  ten   .lays'  provisions 

in  the  bottom  lar.*"'  f""""  '»«-""  '"^'kI  •'''''  ''"i^^  ^''•'  r*-';"'y  ""  <l^"'  t^ 

klers\vithas(|UtT  »«■  •''"• '^    'i"    emergency.    Details  had    been 

(1  in,  closed  \vitl,»«de  fur  the  party,  and  at  a  moment's  notice 

)   arrangement   (  l^  could  have  started. 

and  a  light  cirdi'  In  ^i  »'<^'^*  words  Cajjiain  Schley  gave  me 

om  the  upper  ed  tinkling  of  his  plans:  "  If  the  whalers  show 

ter  end  of  the  h  •  disp()-«iti<'n  to  pu-,h  on,  I'll  send  the  Bear 

painteil  bla<  k,  ;iifttr  tliem  while  I   pi<  k  up  ("olwell  and  kee[) 

liandsto  the  nia  »  to  the  land.    If  the  whalers  stay  with  us, 

ten   feet   abive  t'C  ^^'H  g«>  »'!>  the  roast  together." 

iptain,  pilot  orot  A  word  in  explanation:    From  Cape  "''ork 

directs  the  cour^  I^'f^'^'^on  Island  there  are  two  routes,  one 

signals  to  the  ni,l<*^"   '"   -^hnre,  the  other  up  the  center  of 

)ped   by  the  i(x-.  milh  Sound.    The  whalers  could  have  slipped 

with  an  eve  at  t  u*  *''  sight  to  the  westwarri,  liound  appar- 

lirections  for  a  le;.'>fly  *'"■  l-ancaster  Sound,  and  then  could 

ler  and  rapped  i***^  turned  up  this  middle  passage,  and  gone 

)y  means  of  a  .sni. >•**''>   '•'    l-ittleton    Island  while  we  were 

tepping  on  the  tv^aJining  the  coast,  which  it  was  ourbounden 

[)  enter.    I  souee/Uty    to   do.    It   was    a   f|uestion   with    the 

lid  again.    It  was 'hale*rs  wnciher  to  try  for  the  $25,000  re- 

io  I  .sat  on  the  ed:'*'*^'  "•■  '^^e  advantage  of  their  early  arrival 

railing  for  support  .t'^«-'    fishing-grounds.    I'he    reward    was 

,  a  rugged  headlan<iui^'^l^'"t  to  several  good  whales,  and  might 

)f  snow  and  ice.    Induce  them  to  take  the  greater  risks  of  Smith 

oached,  was  regul  ^''Bi*'- 

to  see  the  deep  r  Meanwhile  we  approacherl  Cape  York. 
ace  or  to  notice  th"^*  distances  shortened.  The  Biar  reached 
ged  outline.  Totl^C^^oe;  black  objects  appeared  on  the  ice, 
and  shining  with  I'hich  our  strong  glass  told  us  to  be  Colwell 
ills  encircled  it,  tln^d  his  ]>arty  dragging  their  boat  toward  the 
aps ;  here  and  thc-P*"  water  immediately  ot^"  the  Cape.  The 
^  through  a  raviiv^^^i'^p'y  t^"*"'i'-'^l  her  nose  to  the  ice,  as  if 
the  valleys.  Farth'*l*ting  the  headland,  then  turned,  and  was 
d  in  the  gray  of  d  ff  to  the  westward.  The  Brar  steamed  out 
hing  from  the  Ca'  the  eastward  and  tried  u  narrow  lead  that 
read  that  told  of  ti''®"*'^^"*'  to  carry  her  closer  in  shore.  1"he 
the  hazy  gray  of  \;\urora,  to  our  surprise,  lowered  a  boat,  and 
»g  of  what  lay  befo:^' ^^'^Ptain  was  rowed  toward  us.  While  he 
;,  at  the  foot  of  Cai'**  pulling  over  to  us,  the  captain  and  I  de- 
le    lirar  .ohpivCCdcd    from    the    cro'   nest.     1    welcomed 


g,  the  Bear  ahea 


aling  steamer  [/'.'•ft'Tin  Fairweather,  a  red-faced,  honest- 
ora  and  finally  (,,Hl»ing  Scotchman,  as  he  came  over  the  side, 
e  distance  from  ti'**^  *^''^'*^'"t*^<^l  him  to  Captain  Schley.  "There 
jrhaps  a  mile.  Ea>e«  v^'tir  i)ath,  Cajmiin,"  the  whaler  said: 
:her's  wake  and  t;  J^e^'P  'lose  to  the  land  I  Mine  lies  yonder," 
th  the  crews  exciii.ca<lded,  pointing  to  the  south-west.  "  C.ood 
o'  nest  the  figure  -^^  to  ye,  and  God  grant  that  ye  may  find 
sen  leaning  far  01'^*  poor  fellows  alive  and  well  I  "  A  word 
1  signal  to  the  helnT  thanks  for  his  kind  visit,  a  grasp  of  his 
>^  learn  something  .an<l,  and  he  was  off. 

ores.  Then  the  ijucstion  arose, —  "What  are  the 

lin  "  I  said  on  ent(  itentions  of  the  whalers?  "  Tlieir  pretensions 
are  the  prospects  •'•  ^o""  i-ancaster  Sound.  In  two  hours  they 
•  the  Bear  will  be  f^  ''*-'  ""t  of  sight  and  able  to  turn  toward 
(one  of  the  wati  -•^''^ton  Island.  There  seemed  but  one 
o  land  with  a  di)r**''*K  to  do  —  follow  them  !  Signaling  to  the 
le  shore  at  one  e.  ''""'  to  tome  over  to  us.  Captain  Schley  in- 
n  the  neighborhoo*''**^ted  them  to  "  take  the  middle  passage  ; 
irty  immediately."  ^•"'^  records  at  Cape  Parry,  and  wait  for  us 


at  Littleton  Island."  Captain  Fmory  waved 
his  ".Xyel  aye  I"  from  his  (To' nest,  and  turned 
to  the  westward  in  pursuit  of  the  black  smoke 
of  the  Aurora,  that  was  already  on  the  hori/on. 

We  turned  our  attention  to  Colwell,  who 
could  not  be  seen  from  the  deck  ;  but  the 
lookout  in  the  cro'  nest  soon  discovered 
him,  and  indicated  the  direr  tion  the  ship 
should  take  to  intercept  him.  He  had  not 
yet  reached  the  shore.  We  steamed  around 
and  api)roached  the  grou|>  that  had  halted 
for  some  reason,  ihe  word  came  down  from 
the  nest:  "There  is  a  native  with  him!" 
.Ml  glasses  were  at  once  turned  ujion  the 
jtarty.  We  could  see  the  dory  hauled  up  on 
the  Hoe,  and  the  men  gathered  about  a  native, 
who  stood  beside  his  sled  in  a  frightened, 
undecided  attitude.  In  a  few  moments  the 
Thetis  was  near  them.  Colwell  reported  that 
he  had  learned  by  signs  that  no  whi.e  men 
were  in  the  neighborhood.  The  native  was 
(juestioned  again,  and  fed  ;  we  loaded  his 
sledge  with  a  generous  sujiply  of  salt  meat 
and  bread,  and  then  allowed  him  to  go.  He 
snapped  his  whip  to  arouse  his  sleeping  team 
of  dogs,  untangled  their  traces,  started  them 
off  on  a  good  galloj),  then  sprang  upon  his 
sledge  and  disapj)eared  behind  the  hummocks. 

We  started  northward  again,  having  taken 
on  Colwell  and  his  party,  and  kei)t  close  to 
the  shore.  We  reached  Conical  Rock  at  three 
in  the  afternoon,  and  de])osited  a  record  on 
its  western  end.  Arctic  ])Ostal  arrangements 
require  the  corresjiondent  to  seal  his  letter  in 
a  bottle  and  then  place  it  in  a  cone-shaped 
])ile  of  rocks  on  some  prominent  cliff  or  ])eak. 
It  is  customary  to  j)lant  a  flag  or  a  stick  in 
the  top  of  the  cone,  so  as  to  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  ])assing  shijis.  This  is  what  is  known 
as  a  cairn.  When  provisions  are  stored  under 
a  ])ile  of  rocks,  it  is  called  a  eaehe. 

An  attem])t  to  find  a  lead  at  midnight  re- 
suited  in  failure,  and  we  ])Ut  back  to  our  old 
moorings.  .\t  noon  of  the  19th  we  tried 
again,  and  with  great  difficulty  fi)rced  our 
way  through  the  heavy  but  soft  ice  that  lay 
off  the  Petowik  (dacier  and  Cape  Atholl. 
Midnight  found  us  at  Wolstenholme  Island, 
where  we  left  a  record,  and  then  visited 
Saunders'  Island.  There  the  natives  knew 
nothing  of  white  men,  save  a  story,  more  or 
less  legendary,  that  was  su])pose<l  by  us  to 
refer  to  Caj)tain  Hall  and  the  J'o/aris.  Cape 
Parrv  was  reached  about  noon  of  the  20th, 
and  we  left  a  cairn  and  record  there.  \N'e 
had  carefully  scanned  the  coast  for  any  traces 
of  life,  but  nothing  had  been  discovered. 
We  passed  Northumberland  and  Hakluyt 
islands  at  evening-time,  and  finally,  on  the 
morning  of  the  21st,  reached  Littleton  Island 
and  made  fast  to  an  iceberg  within  two  hun- 


8o 


GREELY  AT  CAPE   SAIi/NE. 


V 


dred  yards  of  the  shore.  I'hc  Jtriir  had  not 
yet  arrived.  Tlie  Meehc  cache  of  1882  was 
visited  and  found  intact;  therefore,  (Ireely 
must  he  somewhere  Ijctween  Cape  Sal)ine  and 
Fort  (.'onj{er.  and  the  prosjjects  for  his  safety 
became  a  subject  of  grave  ( oniment.  His 
orders  re(|uired  him  to  abandon  his  station  at 
Fort  Conger  not  later  than  .September,  1883. 
Provisions  had  been  promised  him  to  fall  back 
ujjon.  Hut  the  utter  failure  of  the  Ptotens  to 
fulfill  her  mission  made  (Ireely's  obedieni  e  to 
orders  a  retreat  to  death.  Retlecting  on  these 
facts,  we  ho|)ed  that  Greely  had  remained  at 
Conger. 

The  above,  as  also  what  follows,  is  a  con- 
densation of  the  entries  in  my  journal  (written 
from  day  to  day)  of  what  I  saw  and  of  con- 
versations had  by  me  with  members  of  the 
rescued  party. 

rHK    riKST     liniNC.S    OK    CRKEl.V. 

Littleton'  Lsland  is  the  largest  of  a  grouj) 
of  islands  that  lie  in  a  small  indentation  of 
Smith  Sound,  known  as  Life  Boat  Cove.  It  is 
simply  a  granite  rock,  about  two  miles  in  cir- 
cumference and  one  hundred  feet  high.  Its 
sides  are  precipitous;  its  top  is  Hat.  From  its 
position  at  the  junction  of  Smith  .Sound  and 
Kane  Hasin,  it  has  always  been  considered  an 
important  point  in  Arctic  exploration.  It  is 
usual  t(j  cross  over  to  the  western  shore  from 
here  ;  and  a  df^not  of  provisions  is  generally 
deposited  :  any  further  advance  is  made. 

A  channel  mile  wide  separates  its  east- 

ern side  from  the  mainland  ;  lying  oft"  its 
western  and  south-western  side  is  a  much 
.smaller  island,  known  as  McCary  Island.  A 
channel  of  two  hundred  yards  width  se|)arates 
the  two.  There  is  considerable  rise  and  fall 
of  tide,  and  the  current  in  these  channels  runs 
very  swiftly.  When  we  were  there,  the  report 
of  a  gun  would  start  thousands  of  eider-ducks 
from  their  nests  on  McGary  Island.  The 
shooting  was  easy,  except  that  we  found  it 
difticult  to  penetrate  their  thick  shield  of 
feathers  and  down  with  our  small  shot.  They 
flew  in  |)airs.  The  male  l)lack  and  white,  with 
a  greenish-gold  patch  over  the  ear ;  the  fe- 
male mottled  brown.  They  make  their  nests 
among  the  rocks  by  scratching  a  hole  in  the 
gravel  and  lining  it  with  the  down  from  their 
breasts.  They  lay  from  one  to  four  eggs, 
green  in  color.  We  tried  the  eggs  both  boiled 
and  fried,  and  found  them  cpiite  palatable. 
The  ducks  themselves,  when  skinned,  were 
delicious. 

The  Thetis  had  been  moored  to  a  grounded 
iceberg  just  north  of  McCiary  Island,  so  that 
the  view  to  the  south  was  cut  off  from  the 
deck.    Nothing  was  to  be  learned  of  Greely 


on  this  side  of  .Smith  Sound,  and   we   v  L'*ipe  d< 
anxious  to  push  on.     The  sound  was   ne;irl*rlow. 
( Icar  of  ice,  the  wind   favorable,  though   nlice  wc 
(Teasing  in  force.    Hunting,  nesting,  and  ranake  •> 
bling  had  grown  monotonous;  but   still   tihe  t";) 
//<■(//- did  not  tome.    A  gale  was  tlireatenin.»ecbt    1 
so  it  was  decided  to  run  over  to  Cape  Sabiniad    br 
The  time  for  starting  was  set  at  i  v.  m.  Su;iortheil 
day,  the  22(1.    A  record  was  left  on  the  tiinagin-i 
of  Mcdary  Island,  directing  the  /vy/zto  coniiet-wor 
over  at  once ;  the  fires  were  sjjread,  and  the  lin'reqi'i-'" 
that  held  us  to  the  berg  was  singled  ;  we  werlt  was  I 
ready  to  start.    Two  men  had  obtained  periard   ir 
missi(m  to  pick  up  the  bodies  of  some  (luckc»i">    ^ 
that  were  seen  on  the  ice-foot  on   Littletoifrom  its 
Island.    They    were   rciurning    in    the    dcrytht    <>'• 
sculling  across  the  mouth  of  the  narrow  chanReathul 
nel,   when    one  of  them  suddenly  shouted  and  u\i 
"There's  the  Jirar.'"    The  excitement  war  pla<i-' " 
ranted  a  trip  to  the  cro'nest,  so  I  mounted  a-I  knew 
(juickly  as  I   could.   Two   or   three  minutcvparty  h 
passed,  and  then  the  little  black  nest  at  th(.covcrc( 
Bcttr's   forema.st-head  slowly  crept    over  thcl broke- 
edge  of  the  island;  then  her  mainmast  and  a  re(  or 
mizzenmast  heads,  with  the  ensign  and  pen  disfovt" 
nant  flying,  assured  me  beyond  doubt  that  it  Ne/'f"" 
was  the  Ihar.    She  soon  made  fast.    Captain  Indorsi 
Lmory  came  o  1  board,  reported,  and  returned  1884-  ' 
to  his  ship,  and  by  2:30  we  were  bound  across  the  ere 
Smith  Sound  under  sail  and  steam,  with  a  gale  turned 
of  wind  behind  us.    We  had  occasionally  to  fifoni  di 
dodge  a  piece  of  tloe,  but  on  the  whole  the  or  less 
run  at  ross  was   uneventful.    It  is   thirty-five  on  thei 
miles   to    Payer   Harbor ;   we  reached  it  at  bundle 
6:30,  and  made  fast  to  the  edge  of  the  ice  that   Folded 
filled    the   harbor   from    Brevoort    Island   to   was 
Caj)e  Sabine.    Payer  Harbor  is  a  little  bay 
opening  to  the  northward,  two  miles  long  by 
three  wide  in  its  widest  part.    It  is  bounded 
on  the  east   by   Brevoort   Island,  a  conical 
mass  of  black  rock  about  five  hundred  to  six 
hundred  feet  high,  and  perhaps  three  miles  in 
circumference  at  its  base ;   a  narrow  strait, 
through  which  the  tide  ran  sufficiently  strong 
to  keep  it  generally  clear  of  ice,  separated  it 
from   Stalknecht    Island,   a    low-lying   rock 
bounding  the  bay  on  the  south ;  to  the  west- 
ward was  a  high  range  of  hills,  with  occa- 
sional ravines  filled  with   glaciers,  the  out- 
croppings  of  the  ice-cap  that  covers  their  top. 
Thesti  hills  terminated  at  their  northern  end 
in  the  point  known  as  Cape  Sabine. 

There  was  a  cairn  on  the  top  of  Brevoort 
Island;  we  saw  it  as  we  approached;  our 
ice-pilot  had  visited  the  harbor  before  in  the 
Neptutif,  in  1882,  and  told  us  of  another 
cairn  on  Stalknecht  Island,  describing  its  exact 
location  and  appearance.  Mr.  Taunt  and  I 
were  .sitting  at  the  wardroom  table  hastily 
WTiting  letters  that  were  to  be  left  here  for  the 
Alert  to  carry  back  with  her,  when  the  word 


a 
which 

'•Oct 
records 
privatu 
jAologi 
cai.ine(' 
Cockc't 


To 
an  .\i 
of  Ih 
the  e 
hill  a 
work 
a  CO] 

to    It 

•'  H; 

man 

the 

sho> 

ovei 

fore 

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reci 


GREl'.l.Y  AT  CAPE   SAIUNE. 


8t 


nd,  and   wc   v  i-tmf  ddwii  ihe  liairli,  '•  Mr.   Taunt  and   Mr. 

-sound  was   ntMrlarlow.  yon  arc  wanted   for  duty."    \Ve  at 

oraMc,  thougli   unci"  went  on  (k'(  k.     laimt   was  ilircctt'cl  to 

,  nesting,  and  ranakc  .i  |)artv  of  men  and  \  isit   tlie  <  aim  on 

f>iis;  luit   still   ilheiopof  iVevoort  Island;    i  to  visit  Stalk- 

'  "as  tlireatenin.ieciit    island,     i'he  rise  ami  f;dl  of  the  tide 

LT  to  ('aj)c' Sahiiiiad    iiroken    up    the    tloe     l)a<ll\,    and     the 

^•-•t  at  I  1'.  .\j.  Siiiortheily  winds  liad  |)iled  the  ice  up  in   all 

'^i  lett  on  the  t(.naaKinal)le  shap«s.     ihe   whole   liay    was    a 

tile />',yf/to  eoniiet-work  of  tide  (hannels,  over  whi(h  we  had 

>read,and  the  lin  recjuently  to  terry  (uirselves  on  takes  of  i<  e. 

•Singled;  we  werit  was  two  miles  to  the  islaml,  and  an  hour's 

3d  obtained  penard   tramping.    .\s    we    a|)proaihed    it,   the 

s  of  some  duekctirn    a|)peared    with    something    projec  ting 

foot  on   lattletofrom  its  to]),  tl);it  stru(  k  me  as  little  resembling 

"K    Jn    the    dcrythe    oar    1     was    tolil    had    been    left    there. 

the  narrow  cha'i  Reaching  the  icefoot,  we   hurried  across  it 

Idenly  shouted  and  up  the  smooth  sides  of  the  island,    in  the 

t'xntement  warpla«e  of  the  oar  was  a  long  rustv  tin  ease  — 

I  so  I  mounted  n-I  knew  that  it   must  belong  to  Creely.    M\ 

yc   three  minutevparty  hunted  about  the  rocks,  and  soon  dis- 

i)lack  nest  at  thccovered  a  bottle,  which  they  brought  to  me. 

crept    over  thi  I  broke  it  eagerly,  only  to  tind  that  it  contained 

:r  mainmast  and  a  rei ord  left  by  Captain  Ste|)henson  of  the 

t-'nsign  and  pen  discovery  in  1875.  indorsed  by  iJeebe  in  the 

)nd  doubt  that  it  A^//////^    1S82, 'and    by    (iarlington.    1S83. 

lie  fast.    Captain  Indorsing  on  it  the  visit  of  the  expedition  of 

t'd,  and  returne<l  1884.  I  put  it   in  a  new  bottle,  and  laid  it  in 

?re  bound  acro.ss  the  crevi(  e  where  it  had  been  found.    I  then 

earn,  with  a  gale  turned  to  the  cairn.    Removing  a  {<^w  stones 

I  occasionally  to  from  the  top,  I  found  .several  tin  boxes,  more 

1  the  whole  the  or  less  rusted,  with  their  contents  scratched 

't  is   thirty-five  on  them  in  rude  letters;  two  wooden  ca.ses,  a 

e  reached   it  at  bundle  of  Hags,  and  a  leather  sextant-case. 

e  of  the  ice  that    Folded  and  lucked  in  the  side  of  this  case 

oort    island   to   was  a  leaf  Irom  an  ordinary  note  book,  on 

IS  a  little   bay    which  was  written  in  lead-pencil : 


o  miles  long  by 

It  is  bounded 
and,  a  conical 

hundred  to  six 
■i  three  miles  in 

narrow  strait, 
ftciently  strong 
-e,  separated  it 
ovv-lying   rock 

;  to  the  west- 
Is,  with  occa- 
iers,  the  out- 
vers  their  top. 

northern  end 
)ine. 

3  of  Brevoort 
roached;   our 

before  in  the 
5  of  another 
ibing  its  exact 
raunt  and  I 
table  hastily 
t  here  for  the 
ten  the  word 


•'  October  25,  1883.  This  cairn  contains  the  original 
records  of  the  I.ady  Franklin  Hay  F.xpedition,  the 
private  journal  of  Lieutenant  I.ockwood,  and  a  set  of 
photograph  negatives.  The  party  are  permanently  en- 
camped at  a  point  midway  l)et\veen  f.'ape  Sabine  and 
Cocked  Hal  Island.    All  well. 

J.    H.    l.OCKWOt)!), 
/f/  I.teiitt'iiatil,  jji/  Itifantrv." 

'I'o  unroll  the  bundle  of  flags,  that  contained 
an  .\merican  lilnsign,  a  IJritish  Jack,  the  tlag 
of  the  iiiilihve,  and  a  masonic  emblem,  lash 
the  ensign  to  a  pike,  run  to  the  top  of  the 
hill  and  signal  the  news  to  the  shij),  was  the 
work  of  a  moment.  I)ispat(hing  a  man  with 
a  copy  of  Lockwo'xl's  note,  with  instructions 
to  make  all  hn.ste  to  the  ship,  I  signaled, 
"  Have  found  (ireely  records.  Send  news  by 
man."  It  was  understood,  and  I  returned  to 
the  cairn.  My  observation  from  the  hill-top 
showed  that  Stalknecht  Island  was  a  rock 
over  which  ihe  tloe-ice  had  frequently  been 
forced  by  tide  and  gale.  That  such  a  place 
should  have  been  selected  for  the  valuable 
records  seemed  strange  to  me ;  yet  Lockwood 


had  doubtless  used  the  stones  of  the  Ik-ebe 
cairn  where  they  were,  rather  than  have  the 
trouble  and  work  of  transpt>riing  them  to  a 
higher  point.  .\  few  tr;ices  of  moss  and 
li(  hens  were  the  onlv  relief  to  thel)arren  rock; 
a  few  ])apers  ( ontainir.g  tea,  a  (  anvas  t  over 
that  had  |»robably  been  f)n  the  record  bottle, 
some  piei  es  of  the  gunwale  of  a  boat  with 
fire-charred  ends  gave  evidence  of  previous 
visitors  to  the  spot.  I  disjiatc  hed  my  men  with 
the  smaller  boxes,  and  then  visilt d  the  hill 
again  to  wattli  the  ship.  'Ihe /vv?/- was  about 
to  leave  for  the  (Ireely  t  ani|),  and  the  "  general 
recall"  was  thing  from  the  mast-head  for  me, 
so  I  le't  the  remainder  of  the  re(  oros  and 
hurried  back  across  the  tloe.  Several  times  I 
fell  in  up  to  my  waist;  oik  e  u|)  to  my  neck, 
and  often  jimiped  as  the  tloe  was  sinking  be- 
neath me.  It  was  an  exciting  time,  but  I  was 
nerved  with  the  prospects  of  the  next  few 
hours.  I  reached  the  ship,  changed  my  ( lothes, 
and  was  on  deck  again  just  as  the  ship  was 
rounding  the  Cape  and  standing  up  for  the 
(Ireely  cam]).  Lieutenant  Sebree  was  on  the 
bridge,  and  I  joined  him.  I  learned  that 
Taunt  had  found  a  |)ai)er  in  his  cairn,  written 
by  (Ireely  himself,  dated  October  21,  1S83, 
which  read  as  follows  :  "  My  jxirty  is  now 
j)ermanently  in  camj)  on  the  west  side  of  a 
small  nee  k  of  land  which  connects  the  Wreck 
Cache  Cove  and  the  one  to  its  west,  distant 
about  etjually  from  Cajie  Sabine  and  Cocked 
Hat  Island.  .Ml  well."  This  he  sent  to  Cap- 
tain Schley  by  one  of  his  men,  who  reached 
the  shi])  about  ten  minutes  before  my  mes- 
sage was  signaled.  Cajitain  Schley  at  once 
went  on  board  the  Hear,  leaving  the  Thetis 
to  collect  the  detailed  parties. 

thi:  rf.scue. 

As  SOON  as  the  shijis  reached  Payer  Har- 
bor, Lieutenant  Colwell  was  directed  to  take 
the  Bear's  steam-launch  and  visit  the  \\'reck 
Cache,  left  by  the  Proteus  in  July,  1883.  He 
was  one  of  the  officers  of  the  unfortunate 
I^oteus  expedition,  and  knew  the  exact  loca- 
tion of  the  cache  that  was  built  before  the 
retreat  of  its  survivors.  '1  he  launch  had  been 
supjjlied  with  j)rovisions  and  water  for  the  u^e 
of  her  crew,  and  had  started  for  Cape  Sabine, 
when  a  hail  from  the  Bear  recalled  him. 
'I'aunt's  messenger  had  arrived  and  told  of  the 
location  of  (Ireely's  camp.  Beef  tea,  milk, 
crackers,  an  alcohol  stove,  blankets,  etc., 
were  hastily  thrown  in  the  launch,  and  he 
started  again,  taking  with  him  Chief  Engineer 
Lowe  and  the  two  ice-pilots.  He  was  in- 
structed to  find  out  the  condition  of  the 
party,  and  tell  them  that  relief  was  at  hand. 
The  Bear  followed  them  in  a  few  moments. 


f 


82 


a  RE  ELY  AT  CAPE  SAHINE. 


I'     '  I 


I'hc  launch  wliistlctl  frf(|uently  as  she  steamed 
alonj,',  and  we  knew  afterwards  that  the  somul 
was  heard  l)y  tliose  who  lay  in  the  tent,  wliich 
was  partly  hhjwn  df)wn.  Hraiiiard  and  I. on},' 
succeeded  in  ( reepin^'  out  from  under  its 
fold;-,  and  c:rasvled  to  the  top  of  a  Iiill  near 
hy,  from  which  was  visible  the  ( oast  towards 
Cape  Sa!)ine.  At  first  nothing  was  seen  hy 
them ;  and  IJrainard  returned  to  tiie  tent, 
tellin}^  by  the  silent  despair  c-f  his  face  that 
"  t!  jre  was  no  hope."  I'he  survivors  dis- 
cussed the  i)robai)le  cause  of  the  noise,  and 
decided  that  it  was  the  wind  blowing  over 
the  edge  of  a  tin  can.  Meanwhile  Long 
crept  higher  uj)  the  hill  and  watched  atten- 
tively in  the  direction  from  which  the  sonn<l 
had  apparently  come.  A  small  black  ol)j^.;t 
met  his  ga/e.  It  might  be  a  rock,  but  none 
had  been  seen  there  before.  A  diin  white 
cloud  appeared  above  it ;  his  car  caught  the 
welcome  sound,  and  the  poor  fellow  knew 
that  relief  hatl  come.  In  the  ecstasy  of  his 
joy  he  raised  the  signal-flag,  wiiich  the  gale 
had  blown  down.  It  was  a  sad,  pitiable 
object, —  the  back  of  a  white  flannel  uniler- 
shirt,  the  leg  of  a  pair  of  drawers,  and  a  piece 
of  blue  bunting  tacked  to  an  oar.  The  eff"ort 
])roved  too  much  for  him,  and  he  sank  ex- 
hausted on  the  rocks.  It  was  enough  for  the 
relief  party ;  they  saw  him,  whistled  again, 
;md  turned  in  for  the  shore  with  all  possible 
speed.  Long  rose  again,  and  fairly  rolled 
down  the  hill  in  his  eagerness  to  meet  them. 
The  launch  touched  the  ice-foot,  and  the 
relief  parly  hurried  towards  him.  The  ice- 
pilot  of  the  Brar  reached  him  first,  spoke  a 
word  of  cheer,  and  asked  him  where  (Ireely 
was.  He  informed  him  of  the  location  of  the 
tent  and  the  state  of  the  party.  They  hurried 
in  the  direction  indicated,  and  soon  reached 
the  tent,  while  Mr.  Lowe  took  Long  off  to 
the  Bear. 

In  reply  to  our  ice-pilot's  question,  "  Is 
that  you,  (Ireely  ?"  a  feeble  voice  responded, 
"  Yes  ;  cut  the  tent."  The  pilot  whipped  out 
his  knife  and  cut  the  hind  end  of  the  tent 
open  from  as  high  as  he  could  reach  to  the 
ground.  Through  this  opening,  Colwell  en- 
tered. The  light  in  the  tent  (it  was  9  o'clock 
p.  M.)  was  too  dim  to  see  plainly  what  lay  be- 
fore him,  but  he  heard  a  voice  in  the  farther 
corner  warning  hmi  to  be  careful  and  not  step 
on  Ellison  and  Connell.  He  found  Clrecly  ly- 
ing under  the  folds  of  the  tent,  with  the  fallen 
poles  across  his  body.  Biederbeck  was  stand- 
ing ;  Ellison  and  Connell  lay  on  either  side 
of  the  opening,  the  latter  apparently  dead. 
Stepping  carefully  across  their  bodies,  he 
dragged  Greely  out  and  sat  him  up.  He  was 
so  weak  that  he  could  barely  swallow  the 
crumbs  of  hard-tack  that  Colwell  gave  to  him 


in    the   smallest   pinches.    It    was   said   \^y.^ 
(Ireely  first   asked   the  rescuers  if  we   \ 
Englishmen  ;  and  on  being  told  that  we 


his  own  countrymen,  he  added,  "and    I 
glad  to  see  you." 

(Ireely  told  Colwell  that  Ellison  had 
hands  antl  feet  frozen  off,  and  that  Coi 
was  dying  ;  and  then  began   in  a  rami 
way   to  tell   the  long   talc  of  suffering 
misery  that  had  just  ended.    Colwell  che 
him  with  the  storv  of  tlie  friends  who  \> 


rCMM 
t  »ign 
ha<l 

foil' 

'•hill' . 

len  it 

\  rept. 

t  no ' 

air, 

...  ...        3Wn  I 

wailing  to  carry  him  home;  urged  hini  ''/.fj.,! 

down  and  wait  |)atiently  ;  turned  to  the  <•  ,ctor 

poor  fellows  in  the  tent,  sat  them  up  in  t  ,,^  i,, 

l)ags,  and  fe<l   them  with  cracker  and  j  jfui 

mican.     A    small    rubber   bottle    contaii  ^x\v, 

about  a  (juarter  of  a  gill  of  rum,  prol  1,1.^4., l 

reserved    for    medical    puri)Oses,    had    1  g^  ji, 

kept    hanging   in    the    tent.    When    the    nwali. 

cheers  of  the  relief  party  were  heard,  IJic.  gj,.,] 

beck  arose  to  take  it  down. 

hand  when  Cohv',11  entered.    He  reached  1 


1      •  ve,  ai 

Connell,  raised   nis  heail,  and  i)oured  a    jjug  , 

drops  in  his  mouth,   then   divided    the  ^  j^lm 

mainder  e(iually  among  his  comrades.    (    ^^ 

nell's  last  words  would  doubtless  have  b'xHjto 

"  Let  me  alone;  let  me  die  in  peace,"  hail^Q^p 

not  been  revived  by  the  influence  of  this  riQ^j^i^ 

As  he  described  his  situation   to  me  aljg,    \ 

wards,  he  said  he  was  dead  to  the  waist., («r  <A 

feeling  had  left  him,  and  he  had  but  an  li'hat 

or  two  more  of  life.    "  Death  had  me  by  \^  (-, 

heels,  sir,  when   you   gentlemen   came     ^y?"( 

hauled  me  out  by  the  head  "  was  his  de.si  r^^j  \  . 

lion  of  his  plight.    Colwell  then  directed  jg  ten 

party  to  prop  up  as  much  of  the  tent  as  li  j^  qi, 

could  ;  he  built  a  fire,  and  set  j)ots  of  nijg  fa 

and  beef  tea  to  warming,  carried   Brain  jj  [ji, 

and    Biederbeck    o'  'side   of   the    tent    ,  ^st  a 

wrapped  clean  blanKcts  about  them.    A  laianuji 

party  soon  arrived  from  the  Bear,  Capla-andii 

Schley  and  Emory  and  Doctor  Ames  anv  gd  ai 

them.   They  busied  themselves  in  doing  nd  Bi 

they  could  to  relieve  the  sufferers.  The  doi  le  tci 

superintended  the  administering  of  the  f»>ig,  oi 

allowing  only  the  smallest  quantities  to  -^^X  1 

given  at  a  time.   The  sailors  re(|uired  tn  ^jjd  < 

watched.    With   their  pockets  full   of  bri^mte 

and  open  cans  of  pemmican  in  their  h.iiieard 

they  would  feed  the  poor  fellows  surrc]  ppea 

tiously.   Their  hearts  were  larger  than  tli^eir 

judgment  and  experience.   As  soon  as  oivonl 

and   system   were   attained.  Captain   Schl,usht,' 

directed  Colwell  to  signal  to  the  Thetis  :7he  v 

the  photographer,  for  Doctor  Green,  niirjoun 

.'onn 

;ered 

crag 

vistfi 


men,  blankets,  food,  etc. 


ON    THE     "  THETIS." 


Sebree  and  I  had   speculated  upon  to  be 
possibilities    of   the    nex'    !^our,    but    litvhe  p 


t^^^m^^^mji^mmm^^'- 


! 


liREEI.y  AT  CAPIi   SAIUXE. 


anHLil  of  till'  horrilik-  tragoly  that  was  t( 
*  — '    '     "-  — '■"  Mil  th 


fs.    It    was   said 

rescuers  if  we   \  ■    i     ^  .u 

,.;„„  .   I  I  .1  revealid.    Some  mie  was  seen  on  the  ite- 

CMiK  tol.l  that  we  >j  ,j^„,,,„j,.    ,   ran  forwanl  to  rea.l  it,  hut 

had  hej^iin  Ills  iiu'ss.ijje,  ami   I    only  ;^ot 

folliiwin);  :     '•  //nr/ow    ?.'/'///    /■/iii/<>,^rtt/</i 

rhiiir.    Pt'itor  uulli  sttiu/irrs.    Siirn  a/ir r." 

jen  il  (  amc  to  the  hist  two  wonls.  1    h;id 


83 


le  added,  "and    I 

that  Kllison  had 
"rt",  and  that  Co, 


.  e  "f   sufferniK    t  Bo  '    A-I-I-V-i;  waved  pLinlv  through 

(  u  .    I  ohvell  (he,.  ^     j,„,,  ji,^,  f^f^.  „,-  ,,„.  t.r,.elv  i,;,rty  was 

he   <nen(lswho.,^„,,„,,,,,r,H,,..  7/W/.v.    Two' 1. oats  ^^ ere 

ime,   urged  Inn.  t.,^^.,|  ,^,  ,„,^.^.   .„„,  .,v„„^t^  ,  ^.,„,^.^  Melville, 

,  turned  to  the  o^j,^    <ireen.    and    I    started   with    strong 

,  sat  tncm  up  in  t  .^  ^.^  ,,^,.  ^,,„r,..   The  wind  had  in.  re.ise.l 

m  «racker  and  p.^^^,,,       |^.   ,„,,|  ^^.^^  tearing  over  th    1  ills 

.cr   Lottie    contan  ft,,,,,^,,    ,,,,,,^     ,j    ,,,„    ,    ,,,^,.,  ,  ,,„  .    ^ 

},  .  01    rum    prolMjgjj^^,!  a  h.im  i.ull  ;  hut  with  water  dashing 

iv  V         I    ^"1    i\'^    nwalesundir  in  the  short  luit  heavv  seas 

nvn     H  .  h""'!'  •    '"'  *"'■">  '■^■'"  'i--''  I'l^"  •'''i"'"^"-    '^"'^*-'  '"'•'^^^  ^^^'■^'     •    ^'"  >  "^^^' 
r    14  '  "''^"  '^  "':ure(i  to  the  ice  fuot  in  the  (juiet  of  a  little    house,  and 
Tcci.   "«-"reachcd(^.  _^,„,  „.^.  |,„„i^,,|  .^^  Cami)  flav.    Shoul- 
,  an.    poured  a  ^  ^.^^  ,  .t^^ted  for  the  lent.    A 

'  hTs  co7    ]   .'''^«r«reps  farther  an.l   1    n,et  I're.leric  ks,  one 
Vl     J  fi    '"^'7^  the  survivors,  who  was  strong  enough  to 

■  die  i*!!  T'     ^^'M     1**  '"  ^'''■"  '"'''^'^-    ^^  ''''^''"  '^■'''''  '''■■'"''*-''  "'^1' 
'<  inn       ''*''''*^r'i        rown  over  his  head  an.l  wrapped  ah.>ut  his 

mtluen.eofthisno^i^i^^^rs.    A  sailor  supporte.l  hnn  on  cither 
•ituation   to  mc  attj_     it-     j  111        .1     r  „        1  1  ■ 

I      1.1,         •     1**    "'■''  '"^i*''  ^^as  black  With  dirt,  and  his 

.11     u    /■     ^^'^'•'"  '«?  glcameil  with  the  excitement  of  relief. 

idhehad  hutanlHhat    to    sav    to    him    I     did    not    know. 

iJcath  had  me  l)y  he  commonplace  •'  How  are  you,  old   fel- 

gentlemen   came   ^p  -  ^.jj^i,^.,,  ,,„.  ^^ply,  "  Oh,  1  am  all  right"; 

ead     was  his  de.s<  r.,^  1  j,,^^,^^.fi  ,„,     Turning  a  little  to  the  left, 

\    f  .k"  ^'"■^^^'^•'  le  tent .  ame  in  view.    To  my  right,  stretched 

Ln  ot  the  tent  as  iij^  q,,  j,,^.  snow-drift,  lay  one  of  the  dead. 

and  set  jjots  of  ivfig  f^f^^.  ^.-as  covered  with  a  woolen   hood, 

mg,  earned   Brain  jg  1,^,1^.  ^^ith    dirtv    dnthes.    Hurrving    on 

le   ot    the    tent    .i^gt  ^  little  tire,  over  which  a  iiot  of  milk  was 

i^^^^  Si^'""'"'    ^  '-''arming.  I  came  to  the  tent.    One  i)oIe  was 

a  the  />.-<?/-,  C  apta-anding.  and  about  it  the  .hrtv  canvas  bel- 

IJoctor  Ames  anvgd  and  Happed  in  the  herce  gusts.    Bniinard 

mselves  ni  dcng  J^^  Bicderl)eck  lay  outside  at  the  bottt)m  of 

sutterers.    The  do.  ^^c  tent  and  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  open- 

ni.stcring  of  the  foig^one  with  his  face  swollen  an.l  rhcumv,  so 

lest  quantities   to  ,^1  lie  could   barelv  show  bv  his  eves' the 

l^  ^r'}}"^^^  *"  'iW  excitement   that  filled  him  ;   the  other 

Dckets  _  full    of  bri'mttering  in   a  voice  that  could  scar.elvbe 

mean  in  their  h.ii,eard  in  the  howling  of  the  gale  his  hungry 

oor  fellows  surre|  ppgal    for   food.    Reaching   over,    I    wiped 

?re  larger  than  ththeir  fa.  es  with  my   handken  hief,  spoke    a 

'*  1    r'^*^^"  ^^  ^''/Ord   of  encouragement  to  them,  and   then 

led,   Captain    Schl.ushed  aside  the  flap  of  the  tent  and  entered. 

lal  to  the  T/tc/is  :7he  view  was  ai)palling.  Stretched  out  on  the 

doctor  Green,   nK;round    in    their   sleci)ing-bags   lay    Oreely, 

.'onnell.  and  Kllison,  their  i)inched  and  hun- 

Cered  faces,  their  glassy,  sunken  eyes,  their 

HETis."  craggy    beards    and    disheveled    hair,    their 

vistful  ajjpeals  for  food,  making  a  picture  not 

aeculated  upon  tio  be  forgotten.    I  'lad  time  for  a  glance  only  ; 

.^our,    but    lit::he  phoiograph  must  be  taken  and  the  poor 


fellr)ws  remoNcil  to  the  ships.  Stepping  over 
t.>  (Ireely,  whom  !  re.ogni/ed  by  his  glas.ses, 
1  pressed  his  hand.  .\  greeting  to  the  other 
two,  .ind  I  retiirne.l  to  ni\  (.imera  to  take 
thi- |il.ite  1  h  i.l  so  often  pi.ture.l  t.i  nivself : 
'• 'ihe  meeting  with  (Ireelv  I"  11. )w  .lifiirent 
it  was  from  the  ideal  pu  ture,  only  my  own 
imaginaiion  .an  kn.iw. 

Strewn  about  the  ground  were  eniptv  cans, 
a  liar.)meter  case,  thronometer  boxes,  a  gun, 
.lid  (lothes.  valuable  meteomlogi.  .d  instru- 
ments, siiowing  the  inditteren.  e  ihey  felt  for 
anything  that  was  n.)t  food  or  fuel.  The 
.lil'li.  ulties  in  the  way  of  a  su. .  esshil  ph.)to- 
gr.ipli  at  II  I'.  M.  in  the  twilight  of  an  Arctic 
evening  were  innumerable,  but  there  was  no 
time  to  be  lost  ;  so  I  ma.lc  the  ixposiiie  with 
many  misgivings  as  to  its  results.  l!ut  four 
plates  remained  in  my  hol.lers.  Two  .)f  these 
1  dev.>ted  to  the  tent,  one  to  the  winter- 
louse,  and  f)ne  to  the  graves.  W  hilc  1  was 
absent  for  tlnse  last  two  views,  (ireely  and 
his  men  \.u  wrapped  in  blankets,  |ila(e.l  on 
stret<hcrs,  (.;,rie(l  down  to  the  little  cove 
where  the  boats  lay,  and  taken  off  to  the 
ships  —  (lieely.Connell,  Brain. ml,  an.l  Bieder- 
beck  to  the  7/n/is  :  Fredericks  and  Kllison  to 
the  />((ir.  The  living  having  iieen  attended 
to,  our  next  duty  lay  with  the  deail.  Placing 
my  camera  on  the  rocks  near  the  tent,  I 
joined  Captain  J'.mory  and  Cobvell,  who, 
with  a  ])arty  of  men,  had  been  directed  to 
disinter  the  bodies.  On  a  piece  .)f  canvas  (ut 
from  the  tent  1  drew  a  .liagram  of  the  graves, 
numbering  each  one  from  the  right  facing 
their  heads.  This  pre.aution  was  ne.  essary, 
in  order  to  avoid  any  confusion  in  identifying 
the  remains.  \\'ith  a  memorandum  of  the 
order  in  which  they  had  'oeen  buried,  the 
name  of  each  one  could  be  apjicnded  tt)  iis 
number.  By  the  aid  of  tin  cans  and  dishes 
as  implements,  each  body  was  then  uncov- 
ere<l,  wrapped  in  the  tent  canvas,  or  some 
of  the  new  blankets  that  we  had  with  us, 
lashe.l  with  the  tent-conls,  numbered  accord- 
ing to  its  place  on  the  diagram,  and  sent 
down  to  the  boats  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
men.  This  task  finished,  ami  the  bodies 
diviiled  between  the  boats,  the  next  difficulty 
was  to  reach  the  ships.  The  gale  had  in- 
creased to  a  hurricane  by  this  time,  and  the 
moment  the  boats  got  clear  of  the  land  oars 
became  jierfectly  useless.  The  ships  steamed 
up  as  close  to  us  as  they  dare  come:  and  by 
alternately  drifting  and  struggling  to  keep 
the  boats'  head  to  wind,  their  bows  deeply 
loaded  with  the  dead  bodies,  shipping  gallons 
of  water  until  it  swashed  nearly  to  the  thw  arts, 
we  finally  got  alongside.  Meanwhile  the  sur- 
vivors were  under  treatment,  having  their 
rags  removed,  and   being  bathed   and  fed. 


84 


GREELY  AT  CAPE   SABINE. 


f 


rom  1 

id  jo' 
ove. 
lores 
(lall  { 
:  the 
om 
ition 
lat  s 
i)Warc 
-li»va 

latt 

oats. 

ast 

jlect 

ndb 

ae 

uild 


1     'v'^o'        -i                         ■'■^^      .'v*>ii'/  ae  ni 

'  -  -                 -,aJ-B'i-ed.-(iiiisiiuii,  Ai.iilMh    ^  >.^''\\V\\i'  1"'- 

■,'-^  ;  -  -  ■-i-i|:*'"»-'''"i«'«l.  April  Sllh          >  .    \\\\V»,  »'^  'V  ■cV 

•','/'>  \'.--~--r.^Ma\i\vn,  Mny.Miil               ,  .'  '  ,\\\\\\rfi  r  _^„, 

■-••.V'^-.;.-::.i-SISle«.-ll.ApillUlii               ^  A^\-v\\\\?V  '*  *^^ 


,^;^^v;  died 


When  the  dead  had  been  placed  on  the  deck 
and  covered  with  a  tarpauhn,  we  steamed 
back  to  Cape  Sabine,  and  made  fast  to  the 
floe  about  3:30  in  the  morning.  A  httle  later 
I  was  dispatched  to  my  cairn  on  Stalknecht 
Island,  and  brought  back  all  the  records  I 
had  left  the  night  before.  The  Bear  revisited 
Camp  Clay  and  gathered  up  every  vestige 
of  the  party  that  the  closest  scrutiny  could 
detect.  Greely  lay  in  his  bunk  and  talked 
fluently  all  through  the  night.  The  officers 
relieved  one  another  in  telling  him  of  the 
events  of  the  past  three  years,  and  trying  to 
quiet  him.  He  seemed  to  realize  his  nearness 
to  death,  and  desired  to  tell  all  he  could 
about  his  work,  lest  some  part  might  be  over- 
looked. His  face  was  emaciated,  his  cheeks 
sunken  and  pale,  his  form  wasted  to  a  shado\v. 
His  hair  was  long,  tangled,  and  unkempt. 
As  he  lay  partly  on  his  side  with  head  resting 
on  his  left  hand,  his  right  hand  moving  rest- 
lessly about,  one  could  not  look  at  him  un- 
moved. Had  he  kept  silent,  a  single  glance 
bespoke  the  days  of  misery  that  lie  had 
passid  through;  but  to  hear  his  low,  weak 
voice  telling  the  incidents  of  the  dark  days 
brought  tears  to  the  eyes  of  many  of  his  lis- 
teners. 

CAMP  CI- A  v. 

While  on  my  photogMphic  tour  I  took 
careful  note  of  the  surroundings  of  the  tent. 


ent  a 

"_-,3;.^^-^g^^    .  too 

vhich 

The  site  of  the  camp  was  on  a  small  prom  .      • 
tory,  about  four   miles   from    Cape    Sahi^.' 
Greely  called  it  Camp  Clay,  in  honor  <  1 

member  of  the  party,  a  grandson  of  He;. 
Clay,  who  had  come  with  them  to  tv 
ger,  and  then  returned.  The  high  hills 
Payer  Harbor,  extending  around  Cape  Sabir.  ■^, 
back  of  the  camp,  were  nineteen  hundred  1'  „:u^J 
high.  An  ice  cap  covered  their  top,  overharj  .r  j-^ 
ing  in  many  places.  In  each  of  the  two  ravii  , 
on  either  side  of  the  promontory  was  a  glaci  ^ 
As  you  faced  these  hills  from  the  ships,,  ^^^ 
ridge  about  one  hundred  to  seventy-five  k'  _  jj 
high  concealed  the  low  level  ground  of  t  .^j 
camp.  There  were  three  indentations  in  t^^j^^ 
coast :  a  deep  one  at  the  extreme  eastern  ev  £  ^.^ 
a  smaller  one  a  little  to  the  west,  in  w'li  outer 
the  Wreck  Cache  was  built,  and  then  'inotli^j^jj,^ 
at  the  extreme  west ;  and  in  this  last  one  t  ^^^g 
boats  landed.  To  the  west  of  the  Wre 
Cache  Cove  was  a  small  round  hill 
seventy-five  feet  high.  Between  it  and 
ridge  was  a  ravine,  at  the  foot  of  which  t.^j^^. 
steam-launch  landed,  and  up  which  the  fif^^int 
party  ran.  The  signal-flag  was  planted  ^£JJ^. 
the  eastern  end  of  the  ridge.  On  the  ^vc  j^^j^^, 
side  and  at  the  foot  of  the  back  hills  was  tlpg^j 
winter  house.  Near  it  was  the  lake,  a  d(  j, 
pression  in  the  rocks  that  caught  the  vhawin^Y  \^ 
of  the  glaciers  and  which  supplied  the  cam^jjjy 
with  water,  a  hole  in  the  ice  being  kept  opt  ^^ 
for  that  purpose.   The  winter  house  was  sit 


1 
,    hous 

'W  tl 


ated  on  the  lowest  ground  of  the  promontoi 


tor 


"*« 


.liiiltllMLIiW 


{rr^^^ 


I 


G  RE  ELY  AT  CAPE   SABIXE. 


85 


OF  CAMP  CLAY. 

m  launch  iiavlij 

from  boat;- 

"i/ruphic  liiiii 

nil'  neli! _ 


>%" 


> 


/■tf 


iijiDi  ,  v,\\\\\>lt'3"'  y  seventeen  feet  wide,  w 

'"  ^"'■'^\^'.\\Vw!'f  ■tones  each  about  six 

""  .<%-§tl''     '***^  ^"  ^  \\G\g\ii  of  thre 

niM,t  c.-^^^N^'j^^^' (^M  laid   the    Neptune's 


roBi  it  toward  the  east  there  was  a  gradual 
iC,  tcrminatinfi  in  a  knoll  that  ran  northward 
id  joined  the  little  hill  at  the  Wreck  Cache 
ove.  To  the  left  it  sloped  down  to  the 
~~  lores  of  the  large  cove.    The  tent  was  on  a 

ludl  plateau  about  three  hundred  yards  east 

r  the  winter  iiouse,  and  one  hundred  yards 

om  the  knoll.    West  of  it  was  a  slight  ele- 

ition,  perhaps  twenty-five   feet   in    height, 

^^,.  uU  sloped  down  to  the  lake  on  one  side  and 

*\';)Wards  the  ridge  on  the  other.    It  was  up 

'vu»  valley,  between  this  hill  and  the  ridge, 

-  ""  lat  the  relief  parties  came  and  went  to  their 

v'^x-"  /''       ^..- j;^ji' o«ts.     The  graves  were  on  the  knoll  to  the 

/ .^^  /         ^-^^lA**      isH.    Ihe    sight    for   the    winter   camp  was 

V"         /^^   :        ;l0cted  because  it  was  near  the  Wreck  Cache, 

/^    ^  I    , ,     nd  because  there  were  jjlenty  of  small  rocks, 

/..''^       v''  \''/   iC  niorraine  of  the  glacier,  with  which  to 

\  .>\'v\.',('  .uHd  their  house. 

.Villi] .Ml,    y,  AV\\\i';;'     The  winter  house  was  twenty-five  feet  long 

~  -  '-^\\\*.'\^*J?i",  y  teventeen  feet  wide,  with  broad  walls  made 

six  inches  in  thickness, 
three  feet.    Over  the  top 

^^.^.^  ,^^ — -    ---,         J  whale-boat,  upside 

,v^5i^?^:^^^^4own,  forming  a  ridge  pole ;  and  their  canvas 
-/=L~=v i'^^^y^  and  sails  were  stretched  across  this  for 
-^g:^--^^asat  .  roof.  Through  the  roof  were  two  pipes, 
v^hich  served  as  chimneys  and  ventilators, 
as  on  a  small  nroi  ^^*  whole  structure  was  so  low  that,  from  the 
i  from  ("a,)e  go)  ak*>  its  existence  would  not  have  been  sus- 
Clay,  in  honor  '**Cted,  were  it  not  for  these  chimneys;  the 
a  grandson  of  H  ''^®^^  ^^^'^  banked  up  against  the  walls  and  on 
with  them  to  C,^  "cooi,  so  that  it  resenil)led  a  huge  drift, 
i.  The  hieh  hill  ''*®'^  than  the  dwelling-place  of  twenty-five 
?  around  Cane  Sal^'  "*'^'  ^  '^"^  entrance  was  toward  the  high  hills, 
nineteen  hundred  \\'^  ^^"^  '^  *"""'^^*  ^'^^^^  ^*^^  manner  of  the  I-ls- 
d  their  top  overharl"*"™''^"'^'  ^^""^  ^^^""^  ^^'^^  '^'^''^'  *'''^  ^"''  '^ 
achof  the  tworavii***^^*''^-^^^'"**-''  ^"^^  t;ighteen  feet  long,  roofed 
nontory  was  a  glaci    .«  ,  , 

lis  from  the  ships.''^??^!'  ^^'"^  '^""«-    ''  „     ,         ,    ,-  •  , 

d  to  .seventv  fi      .--'^t'*"'^'^  w^s  a  door  across  the  tunnel,  divid- 

levei  eroun  \     f  '°8  '^  into  two  compartments,    .\nolher  door 

J  indentations  ?n  1**"'"'^'^  >'°"  '"^°  ^'''^  ''°"'^'  '^^'^^"'^ '  ompart- 
extreme  easier       .™Wts  were  necessary,  to  prevent  the  inrush 

lilt, and  then  anotli'  uji    ■"        u  1    r  ■       r    .1         'i-i 

J  in  this  last  one  t;^™''^  '"  '^'^^^  °"*'"  ^^'^^^'"'^  80i»g  farther.    Ihe 

west   of  the   Wrel  ,1    1  • 

t!l  round  hill  akyh^^'M "■"''"' :"';'  ^'f'^*'  '"  ^' 
,„»„.,   .-i.       J    .commissarv.     \  door  from  the 


3ver  with  canvas.    Over  its  outer  end  a  can- 
\bout  eiifht  feet  from  the 


>  the  west   in      I  '^^  ^oX'X  air  when  the  door  was  opened.    On 
ilt.and  then  anotl>'jS"'*«'  ''  ^'^'^  ^I'stomary  to  remain  a  'ittle 
wrlule  in  each  one  before  going  farther.    1  he 
outside  corm  r  made  bv  the  tunnel  and  the 


Between  it  and  tr  r  .1  1  11  -       1    • 

le  foot  of    -r  1     :  '  ti^'n"*-''    nearest  the  house  gave  admit 


compartment 
-'  gave  adi 
rhere   were    no 


A  iiix  ,..k;  I   "^i""r  twice    to    the    i  ommissarv. 

a  up  which  the  tir    •    1  11  1  .11 

ag  was   nlmt  H    ^^''^'^^^' '"'"'  the  only  source  ot  light  was  an 

ridee'  On'fl  ^    /Esquimaux  bluober-lamp,  which  was  lighted 


idge.    On  the  wt 
le  back  hills  was  t 


about  an  iiour  each  day.    Into  this  hovel  the 


vas  the   lake,  a  d.P^-^  moved  on  November  .    1883 

caught  the  thawiiur  J""^'^^^  >   "  '^'  ""■  " 

-.  c„^..i; ,  I  *i  ^I  learned   tiie  following 

1  supplied  the  cam  j^        *-.       .1 

;„„  k'-   „  ,      ^        days    after    the    rescue, 

nfL  l,T^      '^   °l^^caBed  over  to  the  Bear  to  consult  with  Doc- 
nter  nou.se  was  sit^       «  1         i-n  1 

r.f  fi,-,  .  tor  Ames  m  regard  to  Ellison,  who  was  no 

ot  the  promontoi'  ° 


Ini'uediatelv  after  occurred  events  of  which 

:    On  June  28,  five 
e    rescue.    Doctor    Green    was 


longer  expected  to  live.  On  the  same  day 
Fredericks  ilescribed  to  me  the  scenes  of 
Ellison's  terrible  suffering,  and  the  narrow 
escape  of  the  four  who  attempted  In  bring 
up  the  English  meat  from  Cape  Isabella,  in 
NovemlJi>;r,  1883.  The  labor  of  building  the 
winter  house  made  such  an  inroad  upon  the 
few  provisions  that  were  left  after  their  long 
and  perilous  retreat  from  Eort  Conger,  that 
when  they  moved  in  on  November  i  they 
had  barely  one  thousand  rations  left,  and 
were  by  no  means  schooled  to  the  reduced 
allowances,  which  were  necessary,  I'nder 
the  circumstances,  Greely  saw  his  men  grad- 
ually ilespairing,  and  becoming  physically  and 
mentally  weaker,  and  he  decided  that  some- 
thing must  be  done  at  once  or  else  abandon 
themselves  to  the  horrible  fate  that  stared 
them  in  the  face.  The  English  expedition 
of  1875-6,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Nares,  had  left  a  cjuantity  of  beef",  several  hun- 
dred rations,  cached  at  Cai)e  Isabella,  about 
thirty-five  miles  distant  from  the  camp,  'i'his 
it  was  determined  must  be  secured.  On  No- 
vember 2  Clreely  detailed  Sergeants  Rice  and 
Linn  and  Privates  Ellison  and  Eredericks  to 
make  the  attempt.  They  took  a  sledge,  with 
sleeping-bags  and  cooking  utensils,  alcohol, 
four  ounces  of  meat,  and  eight  ounces  of  bread 
for  a  daily  ration,  and  a  little  tea.  The  weather 
was  about  thirty-five  degrees  below  '^ero,  the 
wind  biting,  and  the  road  over  broken  tloe 
and  through  soft  snow-drifts.  Traveling  was 
slow,  and  it  was  three  days  before  they  reached 
the  cache  and  found  the  meat.  They  had  left 
their  sleeping-bags  antl  cooking  utensils  sev- 
eral miles  back,  and  traveled  the  last  day 
with  only  the  sledge  and  a  little  tea,  intending 
to  eat  some  of  the  meat  on  finding  it,  and 
use  the  barrels  for  fuel.  Loading  their  sledge, 
they  started  to  return  to  their  last  encamp- 
ment, full  of  hope  for  the  future,  in  view  of 
the  glorious  life-giving  beef  which  had  sur- 
vived so  many  Arctic  winters.  Despite  the 
entreaties  of  his  comrades,  Ellison  insisted  on 
eating  snow.  This  wet  his  mittens,  which  soon 
froze  stiff  in  the  cold  wind,  and  froze  his  hands 
also,  rhey  hurried  along,  however,  Ellison 
growing  weaker  and  weaker  from  tlK'  pain  of 
his  hanils  :  and  when  they  finally  reached  their 
sleepini'-bags,  his  feet  were  found  to  be  frozen 
also.  They  passed  a  frightful  night,  with  a 
tem])erature  at  thirty  degrees  below  zero,  and 
a  sufifering  c oinrade  who  rtHjuired  their  unre- 
mitted attentions  to  prevent  his  freezing  to 
death.  Thev  cut  oft"  his  boots  and  rubbetl 
his  feet  for  hours,  trying  to  restore  the  cir- 
culation. They  had  to  hurry  on  witii  their 
increased  load.  Fredericks  supjiorting  Ellison, 
while  Rice  and  Linn  tugged  away  at  the  sledge. 
This  could  last  but  a  litde  while,  for  their 


i 


86 


G  RE  ELY  AT  CAPE   SABINE. 


strength  soon  gave  out  and  another  halt  was 
necessary.  The  brave  fellows  devoted  them- 
selves again  to  their  comrade,  and  when  the 
time  came  for  them  to  start  anew,  they  had 
to  ( hoose  between  the  life  of  Ellison  or  the 
provisions.  Although  he  begged  them  to  let 
him  die  and  save  their  comrades  at  Camp 
Clay,  brave,  heroic  man  that  he  was,  they 
deci(led  on  trying  to  get  him  to  camp;  so  they 
cached  the  provisions,  leaving  one  of  their 
gims  sticking  up  for  a  mark.  With  their  light- 
ened sledge,  they  struggled  on,  only  to  stop 
again  and  work  on  Ellison.  Another  fearful 
night.  The  untold  suffering  of  those  hours, 
who  can  imagine  them  ?  How  vain  it  is  for 
us  to  attempt  to  put  ourselves  in  tiieir  places, 
we  who  shiver  if  a  door  is  left  open  !  cast 
down  in  the  snow  in  that  bitter  piercing  cold, 
their  minds  half-cra/ed  with  the  thought  of 
the  future,  suffering  the  pangs  of  hunger,  and 
hearing  the  moans  of  their  suffering  compan- 
ion !  Tying  Ellison  to  the  back  of  the  sledge, 
they  struggled  on  until  the  failing  of  Linn 
warned  them  that  death  was  certain  for  all 
unless  they  procured  relief;  so,  creeping  into 
their  bags  again,  they  sent  Rice  ahead  alone 
to  obtain  helj)  from  Camp  Clay.  It  was 
twenty-six  hours  before  the  relief  came  in  the 
person  of  Brainard,  who  had  a  little  tea,  and 
made  some  warm  soup,  and  a  long  time  after- 
ward that  Lockwood  and  Pavy  came  up. 
They  hauled  Ellison  into  camp,  and  found 
that  his  feet  were  frozen  beyoiul  any  possible 
hcpe  of  restoration,  while  his  fingers  and 
thumbs  were  gone  entirely.  Finally  hands 
and  feet  wont  away  by  natural  amputation. 
A  spoon  was  bound  to  the  stump  of  one  of 
his  arms  so  he  could  feeil  himself,  and  he  was 
cared  for  all  through  the  dark  days  with  a 
devotion  which  bespoke  their  gratitude  to 
one  who  had  undergone  terrible  sufferings  in 
their  behalf.  Tlie  rare  bestowed  upon  Ellison 
speaks  volumes  for  the  manhood  of  the  party. 
Rice's  tleath  occurred  during  an  effort  to 
recover  the  provisions  which  had  been  aban- 
doned in  order  to  save  Ellison.  The  few  stores 
with  which  the  party  commenced  the  winter 
were  eked  out  in  daily  moi'.*>t'iils  until  April, 
when  tht  last  crumb  was  reai-hed.  Weak  anil 
exhausted  as  they  were,  what  was  to  be 
done  ?  There  were  the  abandoned  provis- 
ions of  last  November  some  fifteen  miles  from 
the  camp,  down  toward  Cape  Isabella.  Who 
would,  who  could,  go  after  them  ?  In  the  ex- 
tremity Rice  and  Fredericks  offered  to  attempt 
their  recovery.  It  was  a  perilous  feat,  this 
venturing  out  into  the  cold  with  unsteady 
limbs  and  aching,  stiffeneil  joints,  to  tramp 
over  miles  of  broken  ice  and  attempt  what 
four  men  had  failed  to  accomplish  when  far 
stronger  than  they  were.    But  they  saw  their 


desperate  condition,  and  felt  that  the  li^iragl 
their  friends  in  misery  depended  upon  i  quj, 
so  they  started  out,  strong  in  heart  ami-j  jqI 
Taking  five  days'  provisions,  a  sledge. .  ^^A 
and  hatchet,  they  bid  adieu  to   their  yentl 
rades,  and  lor  three  days  wandered  .yj  fj 
unable  to  find  any  trace  of  the  cache  thi\  jjlsl 
left  not  six  months  before.    The   snow  (j  gj 
covered  it  up  completely,  and  in   therj^jyl 
spairing  tramps  back  and  forth  where  (J  gal 
thought  it  ought   to  be,  Rice  w  as  sudi  jgonl 
taken  with  a  hemorrhage  of  the  bowels..jjj 
died  in  his  companion's  arms.    Poor  Fri»y  -A 
icks!  alone  with  his  dead  companion,  inedJ 
from  his  cheerless  camp,  with  no  hope  '  ,ure 
covering  the  coveted  meat,  laid  the  boiij.  ^A 
Rice  in   an  ice-made  grave,  and   strufjj  ^A 
again  to  find  the  meat.    Finally  he  stagj. 
into  Camp  Clay,  to  greet  his  anxious  < 
rades  with  a  report  that  could  but  a(l 
their  despair.  gn^ 

They  remained  in  the  winter  house  ipon 
May,  1884,  when  the  thawing  of  the  gl;\e 
above    them   compelled   a   move   to   ho^s. 
ground,  where  they  pitched  the  tent  in  wiread 
the  survivors  were  found.    One  or  two  thhe  p 
nesses  of  canvas  were  spread  over  the  groiith  i 
and  on  this  the  sleeping-bags  of  the  1 .,  rise 
were  laid.     These  sleeping-bags  were  n.'heir 
to  accommodate  two  men,  and  resemlK^eir 
large  moccasin  with  the  hair  on  the  iibut,  Ic 
Could  they  have  been  shaken  anil  aired  i)r  th 
day,  nothing  better  could  be  asked  for  to  stouni 
in;  but,  as  it  was,  the  condensation  of  tided 
breath  and  the  precipitation  of  the  mois:3  gai 
in  the  atmosphere  froze  them  to  the  groiljssen 
and  made  them  stiff  and  uncomfortable.    1  hat  t 
ing    the    day-time  they    would    draw  tli  ,nd  tl 
selves   out   far   enough   to   sit   up,  and  hem 
frost  would  gather  in  thick,  white  massi  )ossil 
the  fur,  and  melt  as  soon  as  they  slipped  1  hem. 
again  into  the  bags  to  sleep,    There  wa;e88fi 
warmth  save  what  they  got  from  their  bocum. 
They  had   nothing  to  read  except  the    ;prin 
well-thumbed,  torn,  and  dirty  books  they  i'ood. 
brought  with  them,  and  the  scraps  of  m.  vast 
papers  that  were  wrapped  about  the  ston  mA 
the   Wreck  Cache.    From  these  scraps  tinost 
learned  of  the  death  of  President   Gartcjoat 
Daylight    had    been    growing    shorter   e  'ell  i 
day,  and  complete   darkness    shut    them  nstii 
early  in  December,     In  this  condition  t.::aup 
lay  day  after  day,  seeing  their  scanty  stori  md 
provisions  grow  ing  less  nnd  less,  knowing  i  in  A 
each  mouthful  was  hastening  the  probabili;the 
)f  their  eventually  starving  to  death.     N'lmiK 
of  the   party    had    washed  for  nearly  ekvand 
months.    The   dirt  and   soot   had    begriii  noti 
their  features.    \\'hen  asked  why  they  (lid  1  enti 
wash  w  hen  they  had  a  chance,  they  re|)lii.  the 
"What  was  the  use?"   Greely  said  he  i.sev( 


iH 


ice  of  the  cache  thi , 
liefore.    The 
etely,  and  in   thc.,,„ 

i.T^l?"'^  ^^ here  d  gave  talks  on   the  nature  and  effects  of 


md  their  antidotes.  A  favorite  amuse- 
was  to  make  out  the  l)ill  of  fare  that 
sy  woulii  order  wiien  home  again.    Tastes 


isons 
Mt 


ORE  ELY  AT 

and  felt  that  the  li^,raged  the  men  to  give  long  talks  on  the 
ry  depended  upon  i  o„°,^.,  ^f  ^\^^,,  own   countries  and  states, 
^irong  m  heart  ancj  to  ^^\\  ,i,(.  stories  of  their  lives  in  a  sim- 
visions,  a  sledge,  .straightforward  wav,  and  to  recount  their 
Jid  adieu   to   then-   '         "     ,     •        ,      ■      ■  i    i   ■ 

.  rin.  I       V    ventures  durmg  the  various  sledguig  jour- 

r  "^-V^  wandered  .^^  f^om    Fort  Conger.    (Ireely  discoursed 

■)  aDsuhjecls  —  political,  historical,  religious, 

snou  (J  gcieiuific.    The  doctor  explained  the  an- 

*-'''>niy  of  the  bodv ,  the  principles  of  medicine, 
--t    .  ..        -      .  .     „  , 

be,  Rice  was  sud. 
Iiage  of  the  bowels..; 
)n's  arms.    Poor  Fn 
dead  companion,  I  j^;,„;i  i^.^  ^^  discussions ;  "and   so   the 

m'  7  r  -i^  1    ''^  '  •"»  •!"<'  fla^^  '^'■^'P^  ^^^'"^y  ""ti'-  ^^'^h  return- 
^meat,  laid  the  bo.ig  daylight,  they  could  again  venture  out  for 

grave,  and   stru{.j  gg"oit  to  procure  game  and  gather  moss. 
It.    F  mally  he  stag}.   "^  '  ^  *= 

greet  his  anxious  < 
that  could  but  ad 

Brainari)  was  the  commissary  of  the  party. 

^^     wmter  house  ipQ„  i^jn^  devolved  the  task  of  weighing  out 

ing  01  the  gl;  jg    scanty   allowances    and    guarding    the 

tch  \   !"°^*^   ^9   hi<>|ies.    Canned  food  was  issued  weekly,  while 

J  *^n^^  tent  in  \\iread  and  pemmican  was  served  out  daily. 

.    Une  or  two  thjje  party  was  divided  into  two  messes,  each 

g-  ags  of  the  i ,,  fjgg  ;it  si.\  and  prepare  the  morning  meal. 

eping-bags  were  n:'heir  rising  was  a  signal  for  all  to  sit  up  in 

men,  and  resembi^eir  |,ags  and  hungrily  watch  this  serving 

,    f  ^"'  "^^  the  in.-ut,  lest  the  temptation  should  be  too  great 

Shaken  and  aired  t,r  the  cooks  to  resist.   The  plates  were  set 

ii(i  Ue  asketi  tor  to  siround,  and  the  bread  and  meat  equally  di- 

condensation  of  tiided  on  ea<  h.    Experience  soon  ir.ught  them 

itation  of  the  mois;^  gauge  tiie  plates  with  great  accuracy,  but 

e  them  to  the  groiiiggensions  arose,  and  it  was  finallv  arranged 

1  uncomfortable.    I  hat  the  cooks  should  do  the  best  they  could, 

y    would    draw  tln.nd  then  another  man  was  detailed  to  hand 

'   to   sit   up,  and 


CAPE   SABINE. 


8t 


sr,RviN(;  OUT  thk  provisions. 


th 


I  .  ,  .  -         -  hem  around  without  a  chance  to  see  any 

thick,  white  masscs,oi(rible  difference  in  fhe  amount  of  food  on 
•n  as  they  slipped  1  hem.  Long  was  the  best  shot,  and  a  suc- 
•  sleep,  Ihere  \va-:ei||ful  hunter;  so  this  duty  devolved  upon 
got  jrom  their  bouiim.  He  tramped  many  miles  during  the 
read  except  the  ^p^g,  and  added  greatly  to  their  supply  of 
uirty  books  they  i  bo^.    One  of  their  most  unfortunate  accidents 

the  scraps  of  ni  vftfthe  loss  of  their  Es(iuimaux  Jens  Kdwards, 
cd  about  the  storc~)n  April  jotli.  The  assistance  of  this  man  was 
)m  these  scraps  tlnOBt  valuable,  for.  with  his  kayak,  or  native 

President  Gartajoat,  he  could  recover  much  of  the  game  that 
rowing  shorter  c'  ell  in  the  water ;  besides,  he  hat!  the  native 
kness  shut  them  n»tinct  for  hunting  the  seal.  His  kayak  was 
I  this  condition  t/^aught  m  tiie  newlv  formed  ice  and  crushed, 
;  their  scanty  storr  uid  he  was  drowned.  .V  bear  was  killed  early 
ml  less,  knowing  tin  April,  that  required  the  entire  strength  of 
[ling  the  iJrobabilnthe  ])arty  to  ilrag  to  cainj),  the  distance  of  a 
ing  to  death.  Ni  mile.  I'hev  ate  every  panicle  of  him  save  hail- 
ed for  nearly  ele\  and  bone.'  (.)fall  the  birds  that  they  shot, 
^^/'t  had  begrin  nothing  was  wasted  that  was  digestiljle.  The 
ed  why  they  did  rentrails  were  choppetl  up  for  seasoning  to 
hance,  they  replit  the  soup.  Hrainard  was  the  shrimper.  For 
(-ireely  said  he  ^  seventy  days  during  the  spring  he  made  a 


journey  past  the  graves,  and  a  little  beyond 
the  large  cove,  a  distance  of  a  mile,  to  ex- 
amine the  shrimp-nets.  These  were  gunny- 
sacks,  with  hoo])s  in  their  mouths,  baited  and 
sunk  to  the  bottom  of  the  bay.  As  it  took 
twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  of  tiiese  to  make  a 
gill,  they  afforded  but  little  sustenance,  espe- 
cially as  they  passed  through  the  system  un- 
digested. For  food,  when  all  their  stores  had 
been  eaten,  they  resorted  to  the  moss  and 
lichens  that  grew  among  the  rocks,  and  to  a 
broth  made  by  boiling  the  sealskin,  with  which 
they  made  or  rei)aired  their  boots.  The  former 
contained  a  small  jiercentage  of  a  gelatinous 
substance,  of  considerable  nutritive  t|uality. 
The  latter  was  cut  into  small  squares  as  large 
as  a  thumb-nail,  and  boiled  more  for  the  oil  in 
them  than  for  any  nutriment  in  the  skin  itself. 
In  conversation  with  CJreely  one  morning, 
I  told  him  of  the  generous  rations  we  had  left 
at  Littleton  Island,  and  said:  "  Why,  Major, 
when  we  were  calculating  on  a  ration  of  four 
pounds  per  man,  you  were  doubtless  figuring 
on  ounces."  Before  I  could  ([ualify  my 
remark,  (Ireely  exclaimed,  in  a  voice  full  of 
feeling,  "  Ounces !  ounces !  we  were  reckoning 
on  sixteenths  of  ounces.  Scarcely  a  thing  that 
was  not  divided  in  the  ounce ! "  He  then 
told  me  of  the  pair  of  steelyards  that  had  been 
mace  out  of  a  piece  of  wood,  with  a  tin  cuj) 
and  cartridges  for  the  balance.  Often- 
times each  man's  allowance  would  l)arely 
cover  the  hollow  of  his  hand.  »ie  dwelt  on 
the  faithfulness  of  Piainard,  to  whom  he  in- 
trusted the  stores,  and  who  kept  the  account 
religiously  to  the  smallest  fraction.  He  related 
how  eaih  day's  expenditure  would  be  posted, 
and  when  the  balance  was  struck  at  the  end 
of  the  week,  how  the  book  would  show  less 
provisions  on  hand  than  they  actually  had  in 
store;  how  he  inferred,  how  he  knew  that  the 
devoted  Brainard  would  deny  himself,  rather 
than  have  his  .slender  stock  balance  the  other 
way.  Such  deeds  as  these,  the  sacrifices  of 
Rice  and  Ellison,  their  care  for  their  helple.rS 
companion,  stand  out  in  glowing  contrast  to 
the  one  black  spot  that  Henry  made  on  this 
record  of  heroes. 

THK    (IKAVr.S. 

Whf.n  the  first  man.  Cross,  died  in  Jan- 
uary, the  ([ueslion  arose  as  to  the  proper  pla(  e 
to  bur)-  him.  Many  were  in  favor  of  sinking 
him  in  die  lake,  reasoning,  first,  that  they 
would  all  probably  die,  and  that  it  mattered 
little  what  became  of  them  ;  and  secondly, 
that  if  relief  should  come,  the  relief  party 
would  not  care  to  carry  back  the  dead  bod- 
ies. In  fact,  (Ireely  exjjressed  a  wish  to  Cap- 
tain Schley  that  the  remains  of  his  men  l)e 


»»f"l..".«(ii'''^"' 


-v..>- 


r 


~SAl  eincUc   fnaxm.— 
J'JB.L  dctt y/vood,  J*rth cif-^^  Edthr 
G.vr.  «?,*ce,  Jls   ocCnli  BttCt'nr 

^fSSisied  fry  acom/ittT^    sQtff . 
SintciiaCtoH.    Iff  ■CLIma.u.U^^ju,.   JtJU^xC*. 

'ctx,  f^   A^U^^  ytca-Jy  C^*^  i^ 
cut  <3t«,   A^/<'-**-ww-*-«-v^  <^  «  '*^V?*' 


^  CL^r-CA  (<^  C-*»x^-mV-c 


L 


A^/%2(<^,   ^-^f-LCt^  e^UUf,  /Kto      «Ouj 


Jffti 


<.4 


^c(  OMTC^f  ^-r^-yyx.    A^^^^u,      -d«t< 
S*A^    "^t^U  outd^  ytto*^    Ajlcm. 


a.  Otvc< 


-fijfr 


^  Bui 


7-j uui 

^wai 


•av€ 


<i<tcn**t  .t:i^  /*»w  ^^  e/^r*x.  e^  her 

A/-C'e.<x.Z;:^>t:  an. 


'  K..\      M.K  ■■,'.. L\f 


Nr«si^'[.k    !K;v7t;    at   ^\'V:    c.^nce*. 


.an, 
rain 
V 


.m'm^tt*,m^\-<-:mm^^mit^m^--m!i^i^^^'0ip 


i^^^i 


^i  ^i;^ 


GREELY  AT  CAPE  SABINE. 


So 


9, 


J         .  '£       y'      '•^OF  liRKELV'S  EXF1.0KATI0N,   DRAWN   BV  J.   W.   KEDWAV,   FUR 

c-r-  u^^U^'CiJU^^urhed.  "  They  died  beneath  Arctic 
■^itju^f^ar/isim,"  he  said.  "  Arctic  desolations  wit- 
'U^ce^  Oft  Off-ttteail$c\  their  sufferings,  heard  their  cries  of 
tf  ttjk^ij  fty  .^l^c^lgBdsh.  They  are  buried  in  Arctic  soil ;  let 
''yU'^%1^  "0-^-  (A4^eia  lie  where  they  fell.  Lock  wood  told 
>^i-f-<u>>-i^  'Cfi  fliat  he  wanted  to  rest  forever  on  the 
t?"  ^-yy^-t^-JLc  •  ild  <>f  his  work.  Why  disturb  them  —  why 
9a^o^  X)l^■^>tj^^t  ^siject  their  wishes  ?  " 

But  they  decided,  after  much  deliberation, 

^^<y  IrTjf,  ^i>OoG^  bury  Cross  on  the  knoll,  where  most  of 
-^-t  ^Oi^  dCClf  *Cc^Q  bodies  were  found.  This  spot  was  chosen 
^i'  9xC  '4^1CL<Ar -cause  the  gravel  afforded  easy  digging ; 
C</c-r^  -rCcey/  <2<-^ing  free  from  dirt  and  moisture,  it  did  not 
*■»    C^^  o^P^t^ciit^  and  exposed  to  the  easterly  winds  as 

, was,  it  was  generally  free  of  snow.    Cross's 

rC^iiZ  j^OfZusui i-ydij  was   neatly  sewed    in    sacking,  buried 

fe  ?77wv>*^-^A<,/>^Wlt   distance    below   the   surface,  and  the 

f-j,a^  .,M.<^ ^Lf-x^j'KW  was  outlined  with  small  stones.    The 

C^v  ^jLe-aJt-  CiJ\  her  victims  received  less   and    less   atten- 

•»n.  until  finally  they  were  scarcely  covered. 

rainard  told  ine  that  he  could  always  dis- 

Voj..  XX.X.— 9. 


MOM  Ell  H  S  NbW  FHVSILAl.  GEOtiKAl'HY. 


BAKNES  &  CO.; 


CdVCK*. 


tinguish  Lockwood's  grave  as  he  passed  to 
and  from  the  shrimping-ground.  He  had 
been  buried  in  an  officer's  blouse.  The  but- 
tons projected  above  the  little  mound,  and 
the  wind  and  gravel  scoured  them  so  that, 
as  he  passed,  the  sunlight  on  them  would 
dazzle  his  eyes.  "  At  first,"  he  said,  "  it  af- 
fected me  deeply  to  think,  as  I  passed,  of  the 
fate  of  Lockwood,  the  leader  of  our  little 
party  which  carried  the  Stars  and  Stripes  be- 
yond the  English  Jack  ;  but  this  feeling  soon 
wore  away.  We  had  so  many  other  horrible 
things  to  think  ^f,  I  grew  indifferent."  In- 
difference to  death  was  a  characteristic  of  the 
entire  party.  Starvation  blunted  their  feelings, 
and  doubtless  made  death  welcome  to  many  of 
them.  The  first  stages  were  painful ;  but  there 
came  a  time  when  the  suffering  gave  place  to 
quiet,  painless  sinking  away.  Two  men  would 
be  in  the  same  sleeping-bag ;  one  would  die, 
and  his  comrade  lie  for  hours,  with  the  corpse 


I 


■":^X?|5J 


Si 


90 


G  RE  ELY  AT  CAPE   SABINE. 


besiilc  him,  too  weak  to  draw  tlic  dead  out  for 
burial.  Some  were  carried  to  the  ice-foot,  and 
left  there.  Henry  was  shot  (for  taking  provi.s- 
ions)  and  remained  where  he  fell,  a  little  to 
the  left  oi  the  place  where  the  boat.s  landed. 
Two  days  before  we  arrived,  Schneider's  body 
had  been  carried  to  the  place  where  we  found 
it.  Their  strength  gave  out,  and  they  could 
not  get  him  to  the  ice-foot.  Some  were  buried 
on  the  ice  in  the  large  cove  behind  the  graves. 
On  many  of  the  bodies  we  found  from  eight 
to  eleven  suits  of  clothes.  During  the  seven 
winter  months  they  had  added  suit  after  suit, 
;ind  when  sjjring  came  they  were  too  weak 
to  take  them  off.  Some  had  but  two  or  three 
suits  on ;  and  it  is  explained  by  the  fact  that 
after  a  man  died  they  took  off  his  clotlies,  if 
in  good  condition,  for  the  use  of  the  living, 
burying  him  only  in  the  suit  next  his  body. 

WHY    (;REELV    UID    -NOT   CROSS    S.MITH    SOUND. 

\x  seemed  to  some  of  us  inexplicable  that 
tireely  should  have  remained  ai  Cap*:  Sabine 
when  he  had  a  boat  to  get  across  to  Littleton 
Island,  where  there  were  two  hundred  and 
sixty  rations,  and  game  in  abundance.  Greely 
described  Smith  Sound  as  a  rushing  channel, 
filled  with  ])ieces  of  broken  floe  and  berg ;  he 
waited  for  it  to  freeze  over, —  an  event  which 
did  not  ha])pen  that  winter  of  all  others.  As 
a  sailor,  I  could  not  help  thinking  his  failure  to 
get  across  was  due  to  his  being  a  soldier,  and 
the  fact  that  his  party  was  made  up  of  soldiers. 
Put  a  sailor  in  his  place,  thought  I,  and  with 
the  boat  he  would  have  ventured  anywhere, 
so  long  as  he  had  his  shirt  for  a  sail.  Tell  a 
sailor  that  food  lay  but  thirty-five  miles  south- 
east of  him,  that  a  current  set  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  he  would  have  paddled  his  way 
juross  on  a  cake  of  ice  with  a  barrel-stave,  be- 
fore he  would  have  remained  where  almost  cer- 
tain death  awaited  him ;  he  would  not  have  been 
deterred  from  making  the  attemjit,  even  if  it 
were  a  choice  of  deaths.  A  .sailor  would  have 
frozen  beneath  the  thwarts  before  destroy- 
ing his  boat  for  fuel.  But  since  my  return  1 
have  talked  with  Brainard  on  this  subject, 
and  see  that  my  speculations  were  imjust. 
He  told  me  of  crushing  tloes,  fierce  gales  of 
wind,  scenes  of  the  wildest  description  —  all 
these,  he  admitted,  could  have  been  avoided  ; 
but  the  real  danger  lay  iiv  the  fact  that,  as 
soon  as  tlie  surface  of  the  sound  was  still  for 
any  length  of  time,  a  thin  scum  of  ice  formed 


over  it,  often  an  inch  or  two  in   ihicknJ 
Suddenly  the  whole  field  would  break  up  iif 
immense  floe-i)ieccs;  if  the  sides  of  the  \\ 
were  not  cut  through  by  the  shar|)  cdgts 
the  ice,  it  would  tloat  about,  entirely  at 
mercy  of  wind  and  current,  while  they  •.noi 
be  utterly  powerless  to  extricate  themsil\| 
The    experiences   of    Lieutenant    (lieely 
Seplemlier,   1883,  settle  the  iiuestion  ol 
practicability  of  this  navigation  better  til 
all  theories  can  do.    .After  abandoning  thl 
laimch  eleven  miles  from  land,  they  were  n\ 
tccn  days  reaching  shore,  with  daylight  to  lal 
itate  their  movements.    'I'o  attempt  at  thj 
landing, October  ist,thecro.ssing  of  thissouf 
after  such  an  experience,  would  have  been  iiij 
than  rash.    The  Arctic  night  was  alreaih  I 
them,  young  ice  was  forming,  and  the  movj 
pack,  over  which  a  couple  of  miles  a  day  niii 
be  made,  was  being  carried  by  a  southerly 
rent,  miles  every  day,  towards  Baffin's  I5ay| 

THE    RETURN    HOME. 

By   early  morning   of  the    23d   o"  Juj 
which  was  Monday,  we  had  started  on 
return,  and  at  8  o'clock  revisited   Littlct| 
Island. 

Kllison  died  on  July  8,  while  we  werel 
Disko  Harbor.  From  the  day  of  his  renioj 
to  the  ship  (fifteen  days  before)  the  docil 
had  little  hope  of  his  recovery.  J'he  naiJ 
amputation  was  not  immediately  danger| 
in  his  reduced  and  declining  condition  ; 
as  soon  as  the  blood  began  to  flow,  w  ith  \ 
return  of  his  digestion,  mortification  set| 
and  another  amputation  became  ncct^^s: 
He  survived  the  operation  three  days.  SiJ 
June  30  he  had  been  threatened  with  coiig 
tion  of  the  brain,  and  thereafter  lost  his  niij 

While  in  Disko  Harbor  I  was  w  alking 
day  near  the  forecastle,  and  saw  Brainard  Icl 
ing  against  the  ladder  and  gazing  most  I 
tently  at  the  shute  in  which  the  galley  st  rl 
ings  are  emptied.    I  asked  him  what  he 
gazing   at.    In   a   most   serious   manner  I 
turned  to  me  and  said  :  "  1  have  seen  enoJ 
good  food  thrown  away  since  I  have  stq 
here  to  have  saved  the  lives  of  our  nineti 
dead."    And  so  it  was  that,  in  the  enjoyiiij 
of  plenty  and  a  fair  run  of  luck,  we  reacff 
St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  on  Thursday, 
17,  and  started  the  news  of  the  expediti 
flying  over  the  telegraph-wires  of  the  civili| 
world. 

Charles  H.  Harlow. 
Eiisigir  U.  S. 


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RN    HOME. 


Too    little    attention    has    until    recently    been   given  to 
the  decoration  of  wooden  dwellings,  thousands  of  which,  in- 
cluding those  of  plain  and  simple  design,  might  be  transformed 
into  picturesque  and  highly  ornamental  cottages  by  the  judi- 
use  of  rich  colors  {  thereby  enhancing  the  beauty  and  attractiveness  of  the 
lor,  to  no  less  extent  than  is  now  admost  universally  effected  in  "  interiors " 
le  employment  of  modem  pi^er  hangings  of  rich  and  artistic  designs  upon 
white  walls  and  ceilii^. 
The  laudable  and  rapidly  growing  tendency  to  the  free  use  of  color  in  the 
ition  of  vills»  and  cottages  as  well  as  the  most  pretentious  structures,  renders 
>re  than  ever,  necessary  that  the  paints  employed  should  be  of  the  best  possible 
|ty. 
is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  average  cost  of  applying  paint  is  from  two  to  four 
as  much  as  the  cost  of  the  paint  itself,  but  probably  not  uiore  than  one  in  a  hun- 
^purchasers  stop  to  think  of  the  questionable  economy  of  expending  from  fifty  to 
lundred  dollars  for  labor  in  applying  twenty-five  or  thirty  dollars'  worth  of  inferior 
\,  which  after  a  year  or  so  affords  neither  protection  nor  ornament,  when  the  use 
[strictly  first-class  paint  (costing  twenty  per  cent,  or,  say  five  or  six  dollars  more 
ifficient  to  paint  a  small  house)  would  insure  a  serviceable  and  always  pleasing 
|t  for  at  least  two  or  three  times  as  long. 

mother  important  fact — which  no  intelligent,  hoi^st  painter  will  deny — should 
be  more  generally  known,  viz. :  that  a  gallon  of  paint  composed  of  the  best 
|rials,  thoroughly  combined,  will,  in  consequence  of  its  superior  "body"  and 
jity,  "  cover  "  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  per  cent  more  surface  than  a  gallon 
ich  paints  as  are  commonly « sold. 

[any  who  have  had  experience  with  cheap  paints,  and  who  are  deterred  from 

^ing  their  houses  well  painted  by  the  seemingly  endless  expense,  will  be  glad  to 

that  it  may  be  avoided  by  the  use  of  handsome  and  enduring  colors ;  and  we 

them  to  the   nevf  edition  of  our  illustrated  pamphlet  Structural  Decoration, 

published  for  free  distribution,   containing  illustrations   of  many  public  and 

ite  buildings,  decorated  with'H.  W.  Johns'  "Asbestos"  Liquid   Paints,  with 

>les  and  description  of  the  colors  used. 

These  Paints  have  a  larger  sale  in   this  country  and  abroad  than   any  others 
^structural  purposes,  and  for  obvious  reasons  they  command  higher  prices. 


W.  JOHNS    MANUFACTURING   CO. 

No.  87  Maiden  Lane,  New -York. 


OHIOAOO,  PHn>AT>»TiPHIA,  AHD  LOVDOIT. 


When  sending  for  ^'  Structural  DtcoratUm^''  filtoie  mention  The  Century. 


TRIO.  L.  Dl  Viqil  k  CO.  PrtBlWt,  MtW-YMk. 


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PIANOS. 

33  UNION   SQUARE, 


NEW-YORK. 


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THOMAS  CLOCK   CO 


Thomaston,  Conn,  and  20  Murray  St.  N.Y. 

chicago,  161  state  st.;  san  francisco  132  sutter  st| 
london,  7  crippleqate  buildinq8,  wood  st. 


GRATEFUL-COMFORTING. 

EPPS'S 

(BREAKFAST) 

COCOA. 

"  By  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  natural 
laws  which  govern  the  operations  of  digestion 
and  nutrition,  and  by  a  careful  application  of 
the  fine  properties  of  well-selected  cocoa,  Mr. 
Epps  has  provided  our  breakfast  tables  with  a 
delicately  flavored  beverage  which  may  save 
us  many  heavy  doctors'  bills.  It  is  by  the 
judicious  use  of  such  articles  of  diet  that  a 
constitution  may  be  gradually  built  up  until 
strong  enough  to  resist  every  tendency  to  dis- 
ease. Hundreds  of  subtie  maladies  are  float- 
ing around  us,  ready  to  attack  wherever  there 
is  a  weak  point.  We  ma^  escape  many  a  fatal 
shaft  by  keeping  ourselves  well  fortified  with 
pure  blood  and  a  properly  nourished  frame." — 
7^e  Cwil  Service  Gazette. 

MADE  SIMPLY  WITH   BOIUMG  WATER  OR   MlLK. 


MA  only  in  half-ponnd  tina,  labeled 

JAMES    EPPS    &    CO. 

HOMOSOPATHIG  CHEMISTS, 


POWDER 

Absolutely  Pure. 

TW»  powder  never  varies.     A  marvel  of  purity,  strength,  am! 
wholMomeness.      More  ccunomical   than  the  ordinary  kinds,  ami 
cannot  be  sold  in  competition  w-ith  the  multitude  of  low  test,  short  | 
weight,  alum  or  phosphate  powders.     SoU  only  in  cant. 

ROYAL  BAKING  POWDER  CO.,  io6  WaU  St.  New-Yort 


INFLAMMATIOWS 

Aw»  HEMORRHAGES 


'*.*VMf».'.*fc'-'  i  ■O'''';'-'*'*^    ".i'-vw-'' 


9mhw  Otet 


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5L0CK   col 

IurraySt.  N.Y. 

CISCO   132  SUTTER  St| 
DIN08,  WOOD  ST. 


Pure- 

of  purity,  strength,  am' 
the  ordinary  kindi,  and 
llitude  of  low  teat,  shcii 
only  in  cant. 

io6  WaU  St.  New.York. 


i^'matioNS 
orrhages 


